Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Rich Thompson & Kem Johnson/ or Dave Baker & Josh Tofield
Page Views: 811 total · 7/month
Shared By: Chris Prewitt on May 4, 2009
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

Flakes and face climbing gain a groove that leads into the offwidth. The gear in the first 20 feet is tricky. It may be possible to layback the wide crack, although that presents it own set of problems. The true offwidth climbing is only about a body length.

Location

Furthest downhill end of the formation. From where the trail meets the wall at Monkey Business (discontinuous cracks in face) walk around the corner to the left. Find the two obvious left curving offwidths in middle of the wall. Pick one.
Rap from shuts w/o chains on ledge (may have pull issues), or move right to the better anchor atop Monkey Business to rap

Protection

Pro to 5", cold shut anchors. Thin stuff to start, then hand to offwidth size cams. Without a #5 friend sized piece it is a bit of a stretch before reaching a smaller placement.

Photos

joshf
missoula, mt
 
joshf   missoula, mt
 
This route is tenuous in the beginning and the offwidth section is easier done with stemming and face holds...stay in the crack anyway and you can work your way in about thigh deep for some fun. Nov 17, 2009
Ryan and Jesse Morse-Brady   Lander, WY
 
The anchors are directly above Mother Psycho's Little Darlins, about eight to ten feet right of Green Banana Jam.

Be careful of the loose, triangular, mini-fridge-sized boulder just above the right crack. It moved about six inches when I touched it while traversing to the anchors. This should probably be pushed off. Sep 8, 2013