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Routes in Green Slabs (South Face)

Mother Psycho's Little Darlins T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Banana Cake (Buttress) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Blade Runner S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
David and Goliath T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fathers Dazed T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Green Banana Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Here and Gone T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Josh and Dave's Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jump for Joyce T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Krack a Tack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Missing in Action T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Monkey Business T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
My Left Foot T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Stars T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Not KIA T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rock Candy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Samson and Dalieback T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
So-o-o Swe-e-et T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Toy Roof T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Unknown 5.8 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wits End T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wrench Warfare T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Yurt Monkey T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Rich Thompson & Kem Johnson/ or Dave Baker & Josh Tofield
Page Views: 753 total, 7/month
Shared By: Chris Prewitt on May 4, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

Flakes and face climbing gain a groove that leads into the offwidth. The gear in the first 20 feet is tricky. It may be possible to layback the wide crack, although that presents it own set of problems. The true offwidth climbing is only about a body length.

Location

Furthest downhill end of the formation. From where the trail meets the wall at Monkey Business (discontinuous cracks in face) walk around the corner to the left. Find the two obvious left curving offwidths in middle of the wall. Pick one.
Rap from shuts w/o chains on ledge (may have pull issues), or move right to the better anchor atop Monkey Business to rap

Protection

Pro to 5", cold shut anchors. Thin stuff to start, then hand to offwidth size cams. Without a #5 friend sized piece it is a bit of a stretch before reaching a smaller placement.

Photos

The anchors are directly above Mother Psycho's Little Darlins, about eight to ten feet right of Green Banana Jam.

Be careful of the loose, triangular, mini-fridge-sized boulder just above the right crack. It moved about six inches when I touched it while traversing to the anchors. This should probably be pushed off. Sep 8, 2013
joshf
missoula, mt
 
joshf   missoula, mt
 
This route is tenuous in the beginning and the offwidth section is easier done with stemming and face holds...stay in the crack anyway and you can work your way in about thigh deep for some fun. Nov 17, 2009