Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,547 total · 8/month
Shared By: Almonzo Wilder on Sep 30, 2002
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


24 Opinions

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Description

Looking for an easy and fun 5.6 gear lead? Look elsewhere.

Squeezing the Lemmon rates this a 5.6 and gives it a star, which is absurd. Climbaz.com gives this a 5.9, which may be a bit too rough. Still, this isn't the place to learn gear placing skills in a mellow environment. The climb follows a chimey-ish corner for about 40 feet and then turns up a flaring groove up to a pair of chains. There's very little to recommend here.

This, and the adjacent Toy Roof (5.9), can easily be top-roped.

Protection

Nuts and a couple of larger cams

Photos

Bobby Hanson
Spokane, WA
  5.6
Bobby Hanson   Spokane, WA
  5.6
I disagree. I wouldn't say this climb was stellar, but I had fun on it. I certainly didn't think it was a 5.9!!! The pro was all pretty solid. I don't remember feeling that any of it was particularly runout.

Bottom line: if you are visiting for a short while, skip this one. Go climb Chimney Rock or something on North Fin. If you are looking for a decent little 5.6+ that you haven't done, this one isn't that bad. At the very least, you get to practice some finger locks and stemming at the start. Nov 30, 2004
Scott Tucker
Tucson, AZ
Scott Tucker   Tucson, AZ
Defnitely not 5.6. Maybe not 5.9 either, but I think a 5.7 leader would be a bit unhappy at the crux of this one. Agree that it's not great but worth doing if you've exhausted the rest of Green Slabs. Just don't be surprised if it's the hardest 5.6 you've seen. Feb 28, 2006
Desicon
  5.7 R
Desicon  
  5.7 R
I do not like this climb, and I have a strong suspicion that it is dangerous for the unintitiated...

Rock Candy does have some fun and interesting moves (as Bobby Hanson points out) and my hat is off to anyone who nails this route onsight -- including the first ascensionists -- but think about this one carefully if you are a genuine 5.6 or 5.7 leader -- maybe top rope it first?

Calling Rock Candy a 5.6 has always bothered me, and I would NEVER put a beginning leader on this route. If you are secure with leading 5.8s, and you have a goodly amount of trad-climbing under your belt, it should be a snap for you. But the hand placements of the pro on this route are trickier than you might think/ expect. I would rather solo this climb than try to adequately protect it, although Bobby Hanson found it securely protectable.

Scott Tucker's evaluation is probably valid -- in giving it a 5.7 rating for onsight leaders -- though it may only be 5.6 for top ropers or those leaders who are used to doing 5.10s.

After rainfalls, this crack can get VERY muddy, very loose!

As Almonzo and Bobby Hanson both put it, there are far better routes in the 5.6 to 5.7 bracket elsewhere -- maybe you should find one? Mar 2, 2006
Bobby Hanson
Spokane, WA
  5.6
Bobby Hanson   Spokane, WA
  5.6
There is a second pitch here as well. The second pitch truly is runout, and goes up the face across the gully from the top of the first pitch. It has been many years since I climbed it, but I would guess it to be a 5.8R (or possibly X) face climb. If I remember correctly, there are some small nut placements to be had. This pitch certainly is NOT recommended (though I did have fun leading it). Apr 20, 2006
Christian
Casa do Cacete
Christian   Casa do Cacete
It's a typo, ClimbAZ has EFR calling it a 5.9 when in reality he calls it 5.6..

To me felt more like 5.7+/8- but of course I don't know sh*t about chimney/offwidth technique.. Did get to place my #3 for the first time here though.. Jul 7, 2006
Kirk Barrett
  5.7
Kirk Barrett  
  5.7
I loved it when it was over, I think it was my tenth lead climb, felt well protected, used my 3.5 camalot towards the top. Great fun for new trad leaders. Jan 12, 2007
James DeRoussel
Tucson, AZ
James DeRoussel   Tucson, AZ
Rock Candy is tough for 5.6 and will give moderate leaders a grunty time, especially those not well versed in body-jamming. It is not a particularly pleasant route in my opinion. I've never wished I could un-climb a route, but this would be a candidate. Jun 21, 2008
Jerry Cagle
Tucson, AZ
  5.7+
Jerry Cagle   Tucson, AZ
  5.7+
I heartily second JR's emotion... Aug 3, 2008
Daryl Allan
Sierra Vista, AZ
  5.7
Daryl Allan   Sierra Vista, AZ
  5.7
I would 2nd Christians sentiments and call it a 5.7 unless you're a body jamming expert. Maybe I'm a glutton for punishment but i had fun on the climb and found it worth doing. Repeating?, maybe not but definitely worth doing once. Got to share a [required] hold at the end with a bat that politely nudged his way to the opposite end of the hole when i perched my fingers in on just the outer edge there. May want to peek into holds, where possible, to avoid getting bit by one of these critters. Aug 12, 2008
Mike Dudley
Vegas
  5.7
Mike Dudley   Vegas
  5.7
I really did not know what the climb was when I did it, so it was a fun on sight with no beta. I actually really enjoyed this one! Jan 6, 2009
Forest Hill
Denver, CO
  5.7
Forest Hill   Denver, CO
  5.7
I think this is a great climb. 5.6 is probably a bit optimistic, tho. 5.7 or 5.7+ would probably be reasonable. The second pitch off the back of the ledge above is worth checking out at least once, too.

FWIW, Michele did use this as an early lead to learn the ins and outs of placing gear. Despite the awkwardness of the climb, the gear is good. Jan 7, 2009