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Routes in Green Slabs (South Face)

Mother Psycho's Little Darlins T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Banana Cake (Buttress) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Blade Runner S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
David and Goliath T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fathers Dazed T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Green Banana Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Here and Gone T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Josh and Dave's Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jump for Joyce T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Krack a Tack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Missing in Action T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Monkey Business T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
My Left Foot T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Stars T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Not KIA T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rock Candy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Samson and Dalieback T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
So-o-o Swe-e-et T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Toy Roof T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Unknown 5.8 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wits End T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wrench Warfare T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Yurt Monkey T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Steve Grossman, Mike Raymond, Rich Thompson 1976
Page Views: 2,190 total, 13/month
Shared By: Ivan Rezucha on Nov 27, 2003
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


37 Opinions

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Description

I really enjoyed this climb. Challenging and sustained at a moderate level. There may be no 5.8 moves unless you do the direct start.

Here and Gone climbs the narrow face of the next buttress uphill from Yurt Monkey. Yurt Monkey is the buttress that is on the right side of an obvious smooth brown concave face.

If you don't mind bouldering up a bit on positive but small holds, do the direct start. You can get a Yellow Alien near the top of this short face to protect the last move to the edge. This start isn't that hard--probably only 5.8 max, but you could get hurt if you fell off. The alternative is to scramble up the gully on the left to the ledge.

Clip the bolt (only bolt on the climb) via a long reach, then step right onto the face. Climb up to a flared crack. There is good gear all the way up this crack which is climbed mostly via face holds and a few laybacks. It's quite steep at the top, but not too strenuous. There are some cool "plates" on the upper half of the face that make great holds and take gear.

Continue up the way runout low angle upper half of the buttress. There is one spot for a gold Camalot or thereabouts. The climbing is easy, but the rock is a bit suspect. At the flat summit there are 2 SMC bolts set back. You could belay here and then walk off the back, but instead, downclimb a bit right (easy) to the 2-bolt anchor of Samson and Dalieback. You can lower from here down the gully on the right with a 60m rope.

Protection

Single set of cams from green Alien to gold Camalot (approximately 3/8" to 2.5"). Single set of nuts. Extra finger size cams might be useful. A few long slings, plus draws, of course.

Photos

Justin Headley
Tucson
 
Justin Headley   Tucson
 
The vertical angle and exposure made it feel more serious than many 5.8 trad climbs, but it protects pretty well, and falls would be clean. I do agree the direct start is a bit harder than 5.8. Bring a bunch of small cams. Very fun! Sep 30, 2017
Nick Henscheid
Tucson, AZ
  5.8
Nick Henscheid   Tucson, AZ
  5.8
This is a really enjoyable lead. The gear can be quite fiddly, but it's all good once you get it in and the stances are great. It's possible to TR if the belayer stands over to the right. Mar 27, 2016
Braxtron
...
  5.8+
Braxtron   ...
  5.8+
I thought it got a bit sketchy around the two horizontal bands up top. Feb 5, 2007
Scott Tucker
Tucson, AZ
  5.8
Scott Tucker   Tucson, AZ
  5.8
Good climb. Direct start is 5.9. Only bolt is easy to clip from ledge if you're 6'10" tall with a +4 ape index. Otherwise you get to dangle in ground fall range to clip. Easy but runout climbing to the anchors. Fun all around! The climb is quite a bit taller than it looks from the ground as the top tower is set back: I got into a nervous "did you see the middle mark go by?" conversation on this route. Use a 60m rope and you're good. Feb 28, 2006
Gary Sax
  5.8
Gary Sax  
  5.8
I agree that this is a mellow 5.8 without the direct start. But I find the direct start to be quite hard, to me it feels more like 5.9. Jul 2, 2004