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Routes in Green Slabs (South Face)

Mother Psycho's Little Darlins T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Banana Cake (Buttress) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Blade Runner S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
David and Goliath T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fathers Dazed T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Green Banana Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Here and Gone T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Josh and Dave's Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jump for Joyce T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Krack a Tack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Missing in Action T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Monkey Business T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
My Left Foot T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Stars T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Not KIA T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rock Candy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Samson and Dalieback T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
So-o-o Swe-e-et T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Toy Roof T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Unknown 5.8 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wits End T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wrench Warfare T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Yurt Monkey T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: ???
Page Views: 2,497 total, 13/month
Shared By: James DeRoussel on Nov 2, 2001
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


41 Opinions

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Description

Easy start up broken crack system right of chimney. Climb 15 feet on good pro. Traverse left around corner toward chimney, onto easy face climbing. Climb up to one bolt protecting thinner moves near the top. Two chain anchor on top.

Protection

Bring small to medium cams, nuts, quickdraws and extensions for chain anchor.

Photos

Micah Kurtz
Denver, Co
  5.7
Micah Kurtz   Denver, Co
  5.7
This was my 8th trad lead and I found the traverse to be a little stressful. However, I'm not a very good slab climber. I think it is worth doing though. Mar 4, 2012
Johnny Ice
Tucson, AZ
Johnny Ice   Tucson, AZ
Pretty neat climb. Its short and easy but fun. I climbed it once in the snow with steel toed boots on. Good place to take people who want a taste of climbing Mar 30, 2011
joshf
missoula, mt
  5.6
joshf   missoula, mt
  5.6
Bomber gear, a little run out between your last piece and the bolt. I agree that the first pitch is a good route for a new trad leader. The second and third pitch are very good as well, however the second pitch does deserve a pg13 as there are several moves that, if blown, leave you with a busted ankle on a ledge 15 feet below. The second pitch can be made safer if you move the belay up past the ledge...there is enough gear for a solid trad anchor. A couple small-medium sized tricams are useful on the second pitch as well for a dirty horizontal crack. Nov 25, 2007
Scott Tucker
Tucson, AZ
  5.7
Scott Tucker   Tucson, AZ
  5.7
First pitch is worth it alone, but the second and third are highly recommended. I used a #2 Camalot for the airy second pitch move, which is good news if you don't own a #4! Rapping into the tree is part of the fun. Feb 28, 2006
Vincent Greene  
  5.7
There are three pitches. Pitch 1 - Look for one 3/8 bolt with Fixe hanger on the first pitch. Pitch 2 - Up and to the right of the chains. Climb real easy stuff to a large vertical crack (a #4 camalot works here as well as plenty of smaller stuff in a horizontal) use a 4 foot runner unless you like rope drag. Step around a big overhanging block onto the face (easy but exposed) and proceed to top of block to establish a solid gear anchor. Ptich 3 - Proceed up the face to a block with a single bolt and up to the chains. Rappel straight down from the chains to a flat area, then walk along on rappel and down to the chains at the top of the first pitch. Tie a knot in the end - a sixty meter rope just reaches if you swing the rope around so it goes straight down. Rap to the bottom along the first pitch. This is a great route for a new trad leader to learn about multipitch. Jan 1, 2004
kBobby Hanson
Spokane, WA
  5.6
kBobby Hanson   Spokane, WA
  5.6
Fun little climb. I understand that there are two more pitches above (I haven't climbed them). I think the climb is probably more like 5.6. Dec 20, 2003
bw1
 
bw1  
 
good intro for a trad learner. quality exposure and a fun little chimney. enjoy. Oct 5, 2003