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Mother Psycho's Little Darlins

5.12a, Trad, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 2.7 from 7 votes
FA: 1980's
Arizona > Southern Arizona > Mt Lemmon (Sant… > Mt Lemmon (Cata… > 2 - Bear Canyon > Green Slabs Area > Green Slabs (S Face)

Description

Ascends the steep, very thin face to the right of "Green Banana Jam". Climb on thin edges and thin side-pulls for 25' until you get a good rest, you'll want to throw a cam or two before pulling onto the upper headwall. Continue up through five bolts of amazing but technical face moves.

Location

Easy to locate, just look up. It is the bolted line Right of Banana Jam Crack

Protection

Friends and quickdraws (7-bolts)

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Good look at the whole line.
[Hide Photo] Good look at the whole line.
Superstar on the first thin section.
[Hide Photo] Superstar on the first thin section.
Great place to take a first fall on gear (and hangdog for a while).
[Hide Photo] Great place to take a first fall on gear (and hangdog for a while).
Derek, finishing the last crux.
[Hide Photo] Derek, finishing the last crux.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

CALEB ANDERSON
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] Followed this today after Derek led it up. Wonderful movement throughout. Oct 22, 2011
Geir www.ToofastTopos.com
Tucson/DMR
[Hide Comment] Wow guys! Nice work! :) Oct 24, 2011
Bigbad WOLF Anderson
Tucson, AZ
 
[Hide Comment] ! Thanks Geir , Same goes to you on your recent FAs. Nov 29, 2011
Robert Flore
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] Yeah, Derek and Caleb, congrats on getting up this one! Mother Psycho is a tough lead! About 1992 I watched two "elite level" french climbers thrash themselves into exhaustion before they finally got it.

Bob Flaugher and Bill Clinch put this one up in March of 1990. I think Scot Ayers did this one a few months later and gave it an 11+ rating, but I think 12a is closer. At least two stars, and I'd give it three myself. May 27, 2012
Jake Croft
Tucson, Az
[Hide Comment] This was my first 5.12 send, and incidentally first fall on gear back sometime in early 2013. Anyways I remember it being an awesome route, definitely worth doing
Also I vaguely remember the rope almost getting stuck after lowering off it so be careful as I think the anchors ontop of the ledge Feb 11, 2014