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jasonbecker.com 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: MJM & RAMM, 2/08
Page Views: 9,301
Submitted By: MJM on May 25, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (181)
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Robert finds his footing.

Description 

Start with some stemming and face holds to get to clip 1.
Move to the face for some sustained climbing for 3 clips to a reachy hold under the bulge. Lieback the bulge moving left with killer fingers for 2 clips to the anchors.

Location 

At The Piggy Bank, start left of Incredible Weather.

Protection 

6 clips to anchors.


Photos of jasonbecker.com Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The best part about Shelf is you can climb in the ...
The best part about Shelf is you can climb in the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Dave Lilliott at the undercling.
Dave Lilliott at the undercling.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jason Becker.
Jason Becker.
Rock Climbing Photo: Kelli in the thick of jasonbecker.com.
Kelli in the thick of jasonbecker.com.
Rock Climbing Photo: Workin' the cruxy stuff right below the roof.
Workin' the cruxy stuff right below the roof.
Rock Climbing Photo: Carl just getting into the undercling section of j...
Carl just getting into the undercling section of j...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ascends the face just to the right of the crack.
BETA PHOTO: Ascends the face just to the right of the crack.
Rock Climbing Photo: Andre moving past clip 1.
Andre moving past clip 1.

Comments on jasonbecker.com Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 17, 2017
By Dave Pilot
From: Boulder, CO
May 25, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Really fun with wonderful pockets, a really cool finish, and miles from the crowds at Cactus Cliff!
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Dec 27, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Super fun movement over fairly sustained 5.9 to .10a ground. Great rests and awesome finish! One of the best routes I've climbed at Shelf.
By slim
Administrator
Feb 22, 2011
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This is a really good route, probably the best 10 in the area.
By Jason Antin
From: Golden, CO
Mar 7, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Wow - really enjoyed this route. Best 10 that I have climbed at Shelf yet!
By Doug Lintz
From: Kearney, NE
Apr 10, 2011

Really good route with fun moves.
By Chris Oshiro
From: Pueblo, CO
Jul 7, 2012

As of right now 7/7/2012, there is a large hornets nest between the 1st and 2nd bolts. Will spray ASAP on an evening session.
By Jordan Hirro
From: Colorado Springs/Carbondale
Jan 2, 2014

Very good climb! Fun top, too.
By Julia
May 21, 2015

One of the better 10s at Shelf for sure. Enjoyable climbing from the bottom to the top.
By aikibujin
From: Castle Rock, CO
Feb 8, 2016
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Great climbing on bullet hard limestone which is rare for routes at this grade. One of the best 5.10s at Shelf.
By Taketaketaketaketake ....take
From: Colorado Springs
Mar 10, 2016

I love this climb, fun movements from start to finish. Kind of hard when I was first starting to lead 10s but simple enough once you figure out the moves at the top.
By climberkalen
From: kern county, CA
Apr 22, 2017

Good on ya for naming a line for Mr B...I think he's about to release a new album. For those of you who don't know, Jason was a shred guitarist from the '80s that suffers from ALS. Learn up on the man, he's an absolute inspiration.
By MJM
Apr 23, 2017

The naming of this route was intended to raise awareness for JB and ALS. His version of Niccolo Paganini's 5th Caprice is remarkable.
dailymotion.com/video/x2mjfx6_...
By Mark Waterous
From: Aspen, CO
Sep 17, 2017

This gets harder as you go, with the moves starting before the last bolt and to the anchors being incredibly fun and rewarding.

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