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Oak Creek Canyon Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in Oak Creek Canyon

Cactus Flower Tower 33 / 0 / 1 / 1 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 33

South Fork - Oak Creek 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Celebration Wall 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3

Eagle Wall 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 7

Upper Painted Bowl 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Black Orpheus Amphitheater 14 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14

Solar Slab - Lower Tier 19 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 19

Solar Slab - Upper Tier 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9

Friar and Byrd Pinnacle, The 15 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16

Rainbow Mountain - East Face 10 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11

Explore this area in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Elevation:	4,350 ft	1,326 m
GPS:	36.10166, -115.48872 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	639,947 total · 2,320/month
Shared By:	Mike Morley on Feb 16, 2004
Admins:	Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: IMPORTANT notes on Wet Rock and Human Waste Details

WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS DURING OR AFTER RAIN. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery bone-dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE: Human waste is a major issue plaguing the area. The Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition (SNCC) works to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations: Black Velvet Canyon, The Hamlet, Kraft Mountain Area, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor. These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out. Consider bringing one to be part of your daily kit no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly. Do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas.

See https://www.southernnevadaclimbers.org/wag-bags for more information on the program.

Description

This is one of the most beautiful canyons in Red Rock. The ultra-classic Solar Slab is near the mouth of the canyon. This is actually a huge buttress facing generally south or southeast. On the upstream side of the buttress is the Black Orpheus Amphitheater, lying to the west of the slab.

The south side of the canyon mouth is dominated by the Cactus Flower Tower and its associated Blood Wall and Oakey Buttress.

Further upstream, on the north side of the canyon, one finds the sweeping Painted Bowl, Eagle Wall, and Celebration Wall. In this area are local classics such as Rainbow Buttress and Levitation 29. The beautiful slabs in the upper part of the canyon are worth the hike (or you can pass them on the descent from the summit area of Rainbow Mountain). Oak Creek's southern branches are an area of complex topography and few recorded climbs.

Getting There

To get to the Oak Creek parking lot, take the scenic loop road 12.1 miles as measured from the turnoff from highway 159. Turn right on to a dirt road, follow this 0.8 miles west to the parking lot. This dirt road is passable by 2WD vehicles.

An alternative approach avoids the scenic loop. Park on Highway 159 about a half mile south of the exit gate from the scenic loop road. A hikers' gate in the barbed wire fence leads to a trail that heads straight west into Oak Creek Canyon. The trail stays to the north of the Oak Creek wash and joins up with the main trail just before reaching the mouth of the canyon.

116 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Oak Creek Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b 1,060 ● Solar Slab Trad 9 pitches Solar Slab - Upper Tier
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 1,073 ● Johnny Vegas Trad 4 pitches Solar Slab - Lower Tier
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 363 ● Beulah's Book Trad 3 pitches Solar Slab - Lower Tier
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 435 ● Black Orpheus Trad 11 pitches Black Orpheus Amphith…
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 38 ● Walking on Sunshine Trad 3 pitches Solar Slab - Lower Tier
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A0+ 206 ● Eagle Dance Trad, Aid 11 pitches Eagle Wall
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b 122 ● Red Zinger Trad 2 pitches Friar & Byrd Pinnacle
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 51 ● The Warrior Trad 7 pitches Cactus Flower T… > Cactus Flower Tower S…
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 7 ● The Secret World of Arrietty Trad Black Orpheus Amphith…
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 8 ● Beelzebub Trad Rainbow Mtn - E Face
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a 893 ● Levitation 29 Trad 10 pitches Eagle Wall
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 5 ● Put Up Your Dukes Trad S Fork - Oak Creek > Lost World
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b 4 ● Venipuncture Trad Cactus Flower T… > Blood Wall
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b 10 ● Tuscarora Trad 4 pitches Black Orpheus Amphith…
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b 4 ● The Main Vein Trad Cactus Flower T… > Blood Wall