Johnny Vegas

It's also possible to do a different pitch 1 starting right of Beulah's Book. A party got in front of us using this alternate start and reported it's similar in difficulty to the regular pitch 1 (maybe a little more runout, though).

We also combined 3&4 with a 50m rope, I think it just barely made it (Swain calls it 180', and we might have had to simulclimb a little with our 50m). This way you do not have to downclimb to the 3rd anchor (after climbing too high)! Mar 1, 2004

We combined the pitches 3 and 4 too, George, but we had a 60m. Going straight up the corner for P3 and moving out right at the bolt is 5.9 friction. Mar 1, 2004

A fun route! P1 and P2 are each approx. 135 feet long. As Jake mentions, it is easy to miss the bolted anchor for P3, and I ended up 30 feet above it before noticing (not to worry - you can easily build your own). There also appear to be two different ways to approach this pitch. One way is to stay left in a corner, then step right (protected by a shiny new bolt) once the crack peters out. The other way is to stay further right off the belay out on the face, which is somewhat runout but probably no harder than 5.4. Done this way, the singular bolt is a bit out of reach, but is not needed. Mar 3, 2004

I'd honestly have to give this route a higher star rating, 2.5 at least, and as for the grade...by Red Rocks standards I would definitely have to say this was a slight step up from anything in the 5.6 range there. If it were in other places I could see it being called 5.6. Anyhow, it's all subjective.

By the way, the nice shiny bolt on the 3rd pitch is for the 5.9 variation in the right facing dihedral, which is by far better than the right traverse out to the rounded arete. Going right at the 3rd belay is 5.4 but harder to protect off the belay than in the dihedral. Apr 23, 2004

Don't rappel this route. This recommendation is based on personal experience and also that of others. It is very easy to get ropes snagged while descending this route. You would be much better off making your way to the right and rapping Solar Slab Gully with one rope. Jan 31, 2006

This climb was a blast. The second pitch is just fun cruisin'. Rapping each pitch individually is probably the best option for rope pulling and traffic issues. Feb 9, 2006

Classic must do route! Our rope got stuck temporarily during the raps... So be careful! Nov 10, 2006

I would disagree with John about the rappel-this is the quickest and most safe descent from the solar slab ledge that I know of, and I've done every route on the wall that's in the guidebook. I've descended the Solar Slab Gully by rappel at least three times (I may be blocking out other times-*find a happy place!*) and find it complex, sketchy to find and traverse to certain anchors on the way down, and Johnny Vegas offers a quick, safe solution. A short (50 ft) rap from the boulder, a 120' exposed rap over the roof to the P2 anchors, two full length raps, and you're back at your packs. Stuck ropes are as common as cheap hookers in Vegas, but do the math on how many short, diagonaling rappels are in the gully, and you'll see my point-mathematically speaking, it's better odds doing 3.5 raps straight down. See Nevada Forums for info about the accident report in SS Gully-I climbed Horndogger Select that day, and very nearly got to witness the results of that rappel and an inexperienced and tired climber. I went down JV and hit the ground in less than 20 minutes of rapping. We weren't there to assist because we were already scarfing pizza at home by the time the other party got to the next to last rap in the gully. Jul 24, 2007

I have a question about the slab on the start of P3. That sure didn't feel like 5.6 (to my fat ass anyway) I went about half way and fell on my pro, then traversed out to the right and went up that way on much easier terrain. Clipped the bolt from above/right. Can anyone comment on these moves? Are they really .6 or more like .9 (in the dihederal on the left of the slab)? Man I love friction but that freaked me out for some reason. Nov 23, 2007

Cammyjams-- it sounds like you got onto the 5.9 variation. The standard route goes to the right from the 2nd belay. The climbing is very easy, but not much protection on the right (unless you do something weird, you will be too far to the right to even clip the bolt). Nov 24, 2007

JV is a fun route. We had two parties rappelling down while we were climbing up...This made for quite a scene!!! Both parties reluctantly climbed back up to free their snagged rope. I would recommend rappelling the gully as it puts you right back were you start JV. Using the gully for descent also creates less traffic on JV. We descended the gully, had no issues and were down about the same time the snagged rope climbers were packing up. This descent uses one rope (we had a 70 meter) and is very straight forward. There are even some old pitons next to one of the rap anchors for your viewing pleasure!!! Be prepared to walk out in the dark. Nov 27, 2007

Thanks Larry, I realize this probably should have been posted in the forums. I'm gonna go back up there soon and nail that slab. It just seemed like the 'right' way to go off of the belay at the time. Live and learn. 5.9, not 5.6, LOL. Nov 27, 2007

..named for my old friend, John Rosholt, I hope your pulling down where ever you are... Feb 27, 2008

Great route! The climbing was always interesting and never really stressful. This was our "warm-up" for Solar Slab, so we had a full day.

As for the dreaded rope snags, ours got snagged twice coming down JV after rapping Solar Slab without any issues. It was a real pain in the ass, but it doesn't look like rapping the gully would have made any difference: as we were hiking out, we heard obscenities from a climber with a snagged rope in the SS gully.

JL Apr 7, 2008

My partner and I did the 5.9 variation on pitch 3 without clipping the bolt. The slab was really slippery and there's absolutely nothing on it to grab, but it contains some very shallow divots high up that offered us just enough traction for our mantled palms to keep from slipping off. If you set a piece high enough up the crack in the dihedral, a slip on the traverse will result in a pendulum across the smooth slab high enough to miss the more featured rock below it. The layback moves required to set a piece that high are pretty fun. Fortunately, neither of us slipped during our traverses, but the slap was so powdery we both felt like we were right on the edge of doing so!

A few sections of this route that might feel a little runout contain solid horns that can be slung for protection. You might want to look for them and use them whenever potential gear placements aren't obvious. Nov 17, 2008

A note for the start. Best to "suit up" at the base of the descent gully. You can then easily scramble up to your left (4th class) to the base of the actual climb. Nice to find your packs waiting for you right where you descend!

Great climb, but very easy except for the 2nd pitch, which is way classic. And just when you think the challenges are over the holds begin to thin out and it becomes run out! Nothing to fear as you will find what you need but keep a cool head.

Rappelling the gully takes a while as there is a lot of junk and ledges and you are continually having to help your rope along. Also lots of loose rock so be careful. I managed to pull a rock down behind me with the rope. Would'nt you know it that the rock managed to take the rope with it and wedge it perfectly into a crack below me. Luckily was able to dislodge the rock with my hands and free the rope. Lots of opportunity for adventure here.

Most of the rappel anchors in the gully are obvious accept for the second one. Continue on past tempting rappel trees and look left. You will see a very exposed anchor on the cliff corner.

A great climb. If I ever do it again though will get there a lot earlier and try to link it up with Solar Slab (which several other parties had done that day) which looks and sounds awesome. Dec 3, 2008

If there are any other parties on this route (and there probably will be) - please, please consider rapping Solar Slab Gully instead of this route. You'll be doing a service to those following you.

Contrary to some of the reports above, I found the gully to be an easy descent. Six straightforward single-rope rappels. May 7, 2009

Combined w/Solar Slab is it possible to find more 5.6 in one climb? Amazingly fun and a must do.

Get there EARLY. Easy to route find, just follow the chalk. Each pitch has something different and fun. The "R" on P2 is just real 5.6 climbing w/o those monstrous jugs you get used to but still pro where you need it. Combine P3 & 4 for sure.

Props to Tom, Harrison et al for this one! Dec 9, 2009

Perhaps the finest 5.7 blast I've ever climbed. More fun than runnin' naked through Sunday service. A bit run out on P2, but mostly on solid (but steep!) 5.6 ground.

DO NOT SKIP the short, obvious 5.9 dihedral on P3--it's most excellent. And you don't need to clip the bolt to lead this, but definitely show your second that you care by clippin' it anyway, cowboys and gurls.

Finally, P4? Really? Rope up for what is ordinarily considered "scrambling"? I think the opening moves just to mount the boulders at the bottom of P1 were harder than anything on that P4 mound...

About rapping: We rapped JV with zero problems, this with two spaghetti string ropes that usually insist on snagging. That gully sounds vicious to me; would recommend rapping JV every time (provided it's the end of a full, Solar Slab day and the crowds are gone) and making sure you give a damn good YANK at the end to clear the rope. Also, do stop at that short, auxiliary station 50ft below the P3 anchor. Apr 1, 2010

Great route, definitely worthwhile! I was concerned about the descriptions of pitch 2 and 3 being spicy. Two was a tad spicy, but not bad and the gear you do get is good. Pitch 3 is runout on the arete, with the exception of slinging some chicken heads, but its easy ground. We too missed the belay atop P3. If you find yourself 20-30 feet above the anchors, just push it up another 20 feet or so to the bolts atop P4.

We rapped Solar Gully with a single 60 meter rope. A 50 probably would have worked, but would have been close on a couple raps. Apr 11, 2010

I'd give it 4 stars but I haven't done enough classics at Red Rock to understand the difference between classic and great. It's a route with three wonderful pitches. Pitch 2 is fantastic! Steep with great holds. I really enjoyed P3 with its exposed easy run out arete, the traversing left across the lip of roof at the first easy opportunity. The 5.9 corner and slab seems out of character with the rest of the climb if chosen as a variation. Mar 13, 2011

This was my first trad climb I have done. The holds were excellent and it felt relatively easy to place gear. I recommend this climb for a beginner trad climber. Feb 25, 2012

This route was very fun. Only my eigth lead. I was a litle scared on it but it was good. Would do again. Mar 23, 2012

The whole climb came down to the micro placements half way through the second pitch. a couple nut placements and GO! On the third pitch, dont hesitate to look around the corner - there is fun to be had - then you dont have to sling those heads.

climbphx.com - CLimbPHX climbin in the desert! Sep 26, 2012

Link P3+4 with a 60m or 70, if you can avoid the rope drag. Dec 3, 2012

I just climbed this for the 4th time and finally did the 3rd pitch 5.9 varation. I found that you can sew this up with cams, very little risk to make the crux move to clip the bolt. I just love this climb. Apr 9, 2013

Climbed this thing at night on a mid-summer's evening. What a blast that was! Sweet views from the huge ledge between JV and Solar Slab (Mt. Wilson illuminated by the city lights as well as the upper Solar Slab).



As for beta:

Single rack to 3". The ST rack was WAAAY overkill. This is one of the best 5.7's I have climbed anywhere. Red Rock moderate climbing at its finest.

RE: Rapping the route....

If you know what you are doing you will be fine rapping the route - we rapped it at night in gusty winds and had no hang-ups on rappel, just be mindful of what you are rapping over and be sure to use the station 50' from the top station...YMMV Jul 7, 2013

Third time I have done this route. Entire route is outstanding, but the 2nd pitch is fantastic and the third pitch 5.9 variation is a most do. I am a 5.7 leader and the third pitch felt very secure. Takes great gear making the consequence of a fall very safe IMHO. Have fun...!! Great Route! Nov 19, 2013

really enjoyed this. i led 1st and third pitches. was gonna combine 3 and 4 but rope drag was crazy. maybe because i did sling a couple knobs in the runout section. thought the 1st pitch was between 5.6 and 5.7. the second pitch seemed to be the crux to me. a little runout for my partner at 5.7. she might have been able to place some small gear. 3rd pitch was 5.5 or maybe 5.6 but the runout section was easy. head back left as soon as you can start placing gear again and you'll end up below or beside the anchors.
you can avoid a lot of the diagonal rappels in the gully with a 70m all the way on the 1st rappel. Nov 14, 2014

My buddy and I did this route and noticed some rap anchors I didn't see mentioned here. When you top out on JV there are a few huge boulders. Walk around the boulder to the north. You will see anchors at your feet while peering down into the Solar Slab Gully.

When looking down from the anchor you really can't see the next station. We had 80 Meters of single rope confidence so I gave it a try. The first rap drops you on to a ledge. About 20 feet east / left is a tree with webbing.

From this point you are 3 raps from the base of Solar Slab Gully. It should be easily done with a single 60M. Mar 25, 2015

I gotta say this is about the easiest 5.7 I've ever climbed. Did not really see the fuss with run outs as the climbing was so easy as to not make that a concern. Really enjoyed the route. May 28, 2015

For experienced climbers, rapping SS Gully is totally casual and fast: 6 quick singles. Yes, care is needed, but don't fear the hype. But also don't rap down if people are coming up it! Dec 15, 2015

You can rappel down the route from the top of P3 with 2 ropes. Lots of chickenheads can mean stuck ropes. We took this option once, albeit from the top of the climb.

Taking the gully route, there are two options. Option one is to rappel down the gully route with a single 60m (I think, I can't confirm because I took option 2). Option 2: Once you go around the large boulder at the top of the route to reach the Solar Slab option, there is a rappel station if you take a hard right. We took this option because there was a party coming up the Gully.

For this rappel, we used a single 70m. The rope did NOT touch the ground, but there is an intermediate rappel on climbers left, on a small ledge with a tat-tree. We hooked up to this station and got into gully. Continue on down the Gully route for the remainder of the rappels.

If you heard the news of the Spokane climber who died here, this is where he fell. We don't know why or how. But be careful with your rappels, step carefully, use a prusik or autoblock to back-up your rap, and tie knots in the ends of your ropes. Jan 6, 2016

Great rock, excellent position, good pro, and no hard moves. Rarely does a multi-pitch climb have all four of those attributes. We rapped the route without incident. Descending over the 3rd pitch roof was stimulating. Mar 11, 2016

Pitch 3 and 4 were easily linked with a 60 meter. I found pitch three to have plenty of pro in the form of slung chicken heads and smallish gear. I think the the book say something like "no pro until even with the roof" not the case -- well protected.

Link this with upper solar slab for a long day of cruiser climbing!! And do the the walk off! I have heard epic stories about the walk off from solar slab, but we followed the directions from the Handren guide, found the bolted anchors right away, two double rope raps, then mild scrambling. Maybe took 2 - 2.5 hrs back to the car. Apr 6, 2016

Beta for 3rd pitch:

Like others mentón, the runout start can be protected by slinging chicken heads. Once you get to the right of the roof you'll see two crack systems. One goes up and left, the other goes up and right. Take the one that goes up and left. Once you pop over this face section, you'll see the single rap ring on webbing. May 3, 2016

Video of Johnny Vegas to Solar Slab.

youtu.be/W34zEB43jiE Sep 1, 2016

Great route which we climbed yesterday 10 Jan in the sun. Sensational moves on ironstone jugs gray protection and positions. Our first multi at RR.
Very windy at the top
Really enjoyed the excellent bollard (chicken head) runners on pitch 3 - soft 10mm tape great for lacing these.
Rapping the route would have been a real drama in the wind - the 5 raps down solar gully were definitely in the convenience climbing category thanks heaps to the folks that set this up. Jan 11, 2017

Did this route this week on the way up to Solar Slab. Fun climbing! I led the "5.9" slab variation, and I felt like that is the natural way to do that section of route, and it protects well. I didn't agree with the 5.9 grade tho. Maybe 5.7. One little smear move on a sticky rock. Apr 19, 2017

Climbed this route on 4/3. Loved it! Great exposure and very steep for the grade. Rapped back down the route without a problem. Apr 19, 2018

I've got video of Pitches 1-3 (everything but the final scramble), which might be useful if you want to get a better sense of what it looks like. I did make a routefinding mistake on pitch 3 (that I point out), and ended up above the anchors - which I think may be a common problem.

youtube.com/watch?v=HUxslqx… Feb 12, 2019

Really fun climb. Mostly 5.5 - 5.6 climbing with a few 5.7 moves on pitch 2.

On pitch 3 once you get to the right side of the roof you have the option of angling left over to roof to belay at rappel anchors or continue up the right angling crack. This right angling crack is the original line which is fun climbing that protects very well and has less rope drag while keeping you out of the way of those who decide to rap down Johnny Vegas. At the top of this crack move left out onto the final 20-foot 5.3 slab up to a large belay platform at huge boulders.

Pitch 4 isn't really a pitch as much as it's a 4th-class romp up slabs to the base of Solar Slab. Mar 2, 2019

With a 70m rope you can rap this route in 3 with no problems. A double rope rap will likely encounter problems with the knot. Mar 7, 2019

It is not recommended to rappel Johnny Vegas because you will likely interfere with other climbing parties coming up the route and also because of the high potential for rope snags - especially on windy days. Many parties have lost hours dealing with rope snags on this rappel.

The best descent option is to locate the rappel anchors at the top of pitch 3 which are off to the climbers right behind the large boulders; they overlook the Solar Slab gully. With a 2-rope rappel you easily drop down to the top of pitch 2 of the Solar Slab Gully route. From here you move 50 feet to the next set of rappel anchors and make a 1-rope rappel to the next set of anchors atop pitch 1. From here you can make a 2-rope rappel to the ground (or break it up into 2 1-rope rappels). In any case this is by far the quickest and easiest way to get down from Johnny Vegas and the Solar Slab terrace. Mar 19, 2019