Avg: 3.1 from 572 votes
|Type:||Trad, 4 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Tom Cecil, Dave Cox, Harrison Shull, Todd Hewitt, 11/94|
|Page Views:||40,217 total · 251/month|
|Shared By:||Jake Wyatt on Dec 31, 2004|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionApproach as per Solar Slab Gully. The start of Johnny Vegas is just to the left (when facing the wall), behind a boulder perched on a short pedestal of rock.
p1. Start up the double cracks, which eventually become a single crack. As the protection starts to become sparser, trend up and left. Belay at a bolted anchor on a platform at the base of a short dark dihedral. A long pitch.
p2. Stem up the dihedral to gain a face with some questionable rock. Continue up and slightly right to another bolted belay, below the base of a right-facing dihedral capped by a roof.
p3. Head up and right on the easy but run out slab, and continue up, and around the corner. The pro is better once around the corner. The crux route-finding is deciding when to surmount the apex of the face and start trending back to the left. It's easy to come up to slabby ground and find yourself above the belay/rappel anchor.
p4. Head up easy climbing to the boulders near the edge of the main Solar Slab Terrace, and continue scrambling up to the base of Solar Slab if so desired.
With the exception of p4, all of the pitches felt like they had some 5.6 climbing, and some friable rock.
Rappel from the top of p3 with two ropes (or if you only have one rope, head down Solar Slab Gully).