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Routes in The Friar and Byrd Pinnacle

A Crack, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Boondoggle T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Byrd Pinnacle Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Feather S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Friar, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
J + J Groove T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lemon Bomb T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Red Zinger T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Skyline T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trim T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unknown T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
V Formation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Whoosh T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wrangler Hero? T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Xyphoid Fever T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Xyphoid Left T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 110 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 8,736 total · 49/month
Shared By: david goldstein on Mar 8, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

An Indian Creek style crack climb which would probably get three stars if it were longer or didn't have a big ledge in the middle.

The climb follows a left facing corner in a west facing alcove about five minutes walk east of Solar Slab gully.

P1: 75', 5.10. Mostly fun, 5.9 jamming and laybacking with a technical stem/reach at 3/4 height. This pitch has several stances/rests and ends at a rap station on a big ledge.

P2: 35', 5.10+. Though Swain rates these two pitches the same, P2 is harder, particularly to lead. The crux is quite reminiscent of The Wave on Supercrack Buttress at Indian Creek -- laybacking around a bulge; have a 1.5 Friend size piece ready to go. After about 35' the crack ends at a large roof where there is a rap station. Two short raps to descend. A single 60m rope might just make it from the second anchor to the ground. If you don't do the continuation described below, the leader will be a lot more comfortable if he/she lowers from the end of the 2nd pitch and belays from the first rap station.

It is possible to continue from the second anchor by slab traversing left about 15' and joining the crack system to left which has its own anchors and which Swain rumors to be 5.9 but looks harder. This continuation would add about 50' of climbing and provides an interesting contrast in styles --an abrupt transition from power laybacking to tenuous slabbing -- but is somewhat tricky to protect for the 2nd on without a big piece (~4.5 Camalot). The crux of the traverse is at the start, so the leader is protected adequately. Once the traverse is over, the crack above, which we did not climb, appears to require wide hand pieces, maybe 3 and 3.5 Camalots.

The climber in photo 1 is starting the P1 crux.

Protection

Double set of cams from thin fingers to hands with perhaps a couple of extra in the rattly fingers / thin hands range. A couple of small to medium nuts come in handy on P1.
10b4me  
Really unique route at RR. If you like Indian Creek, you'll like this one. I'd recommend 3 each of purple and green Camalots (0.5 and 0.75). I found the first pitch really fun; I found the crux on the second pitch really hard, even for 5.10+...BTW, we have beta about several RR routes and loads of US and Canadian classics on our site:ericandlucie.com. Apr 17, 2004
d-know
electric lady land
  5.10+
d-know   electric lady land
  5.10+
SUPERB. one of the best single pitch crack routes in Red Rocks.
Crux maybe the bulge after first anchor. Jan 26, 2006
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
  5.10+
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
  5.10+
A great "bonus" pitch after climbing a long route on Solar Slab. Dec 31, 2006
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10+
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10+
really great route with varied movement and great pro. stout, though- especially the second pitch. i'd say the first pitch is height dependent at the crux- the shorter you are, the tougher you have to be! Mar 12, 2007
tallmark515
San Francisco
  5.10+
tallmark515   San Francisco
  5.10+
Stems, liebacks and jams on P1 and a powerful but short .10d crux lieback on P2.

Great route and a lot of good rests, I just wish it was longer. Nov 30, 2009
I remember thinking that the second pitch crux bulge would protect better with non-BD sizes. The green was too big or too small, I forget. Might be smart to mix up brands on this one a bit. Agree that the P1 crux felt stretchy, definitely some in-your-face climbing, way fun. Nov 2, 2011
slim

  5.10d
slim    
  5.10d
i thought i remember the bulge being #2 friend, but it has been a really long time since i did it. Nov 2, 2011
Pitch one seemed more like low 5.10 with a mid to hard 5.10 crux there are a couple good rests tho. Pitch two was burly for me but protects really well. Crux gear beta. .75 seemed small and 1 camalot seemed to big. The crack flares a little behind I had a 1 go in easily from good position that ended up getting stuck...came back next day to retrieve it. Single rack with doubles .5-2 is nice don't forget the small gear tho..you'll thank me for that. Dec 23, 2013
Weston L
NEVADASTAN
  5.10+
Weston L   NEVADASTAN
  5.10+
Pretty damn good! Hollow but seemingly solid features to start with, although that definitely was a surprise to me. Webbing at both rappel stations in good shape as of 1/26/14.

RE the crux...first pitch felt harder for me, but I'm also short...and have a rather low IQ, so YMMV. Jan 26, 2014
Sean
Oak Park, CA
 
Sean   Oak Park, CA
 
able to rap with a 70 from the P2 rap slings under the large roof all the way down to the base (bypassing the rap anchor atop P1), with about 5 ft to spare on each strand Jan 19, 2015
josh holcomb
Las Vegas, NV
josh holcomb   Las Vegas, NV
I thought the first pitch crux was more difficult. Couldn't imagine doing the second pitch without #2 friends and red metolius cams. Be sure to have some finger sized cams after the bulge or you will be running it out to the chains. Mar 29, 2015
Brent Barghahn
SLC, UT
 
Brent Barghahn   SLC, UT
 
A #1 slid in nicely just before the buldge and I used 0.75s through the buldge, loose but not overly baggy. BD sizes are fine. Jan 1, 2017

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