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Routes in The Friar and Byrd Pinnacle
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A Crack, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Boondoggle T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Byrd Pinnacle Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Feather S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Friar, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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J + J Groove T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Lemon Bomb T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Red Zinger T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Skyline T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Trim T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Unknown T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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V Formation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Whoosh T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wrangler Hero? T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Xyphoid Fever T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Xyphoid Left T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 110 ft (33 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 12,160 total · 52/month |
| Shared By: | david goldstein on Mar 8, 2004 |
| Admins: | Justin Johnsen, Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc |
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
An Indian Creek style crack climb which would probably get three stars if it were longer or didn't have a big ledge in the middle.
The climb follows a left facing corner in a west facing alcove about five minutes walk east of Solar Slab gully.
P1: 75', 5.10. Mostly fun, 5.9 jamming and laybacking with a technical stem/reach at 3/4 height. This pitch has several stances/rests and ends at a rap station on a big ledge.
P2: 35', 5.10+. Though Swain rates these two pitches the same, P2 is harder, particularly to lead. The crux is quite reminiscent of The Wave on Supercrack Buttress at Indian Creek -- laybacking around a bulge; have a 1.5 Friend size piece ready to go. After about 35' the crack ends at a large roof where there is a rap station. Two short raps to descend. A single 60m rope might just make it from the second anchor to the ground. If you don't do the continuation described below, the leader will be a lot more comfortable if he/she lowers from the end of the 2nd pitch and belays from the first rap station.
It is possible to continue from the second anchor by slab traversing left about 15' and joining the crack system to left which has its own anchors and which Swain rumors to be 5.9 but looks harder. This continuation would add about 50' of climbing and provides an interesting contrast in styles --an abrupt transition from power laybacking to tenuous slabbing -- but is somewhat tricky to protect for the 2nd on without a big piece (~4.5 Camalot). The crux of the traverse is at the start, so the leader is protected adequately. Once the traverse is over, the crack above, which we did not climb, appears to require wide hand pieces, maybe 3 and 3.5 Camalots.
The climber in photo 1 is starting the P1 crux.
The climb follows a left facing corner in a west facing alcove about five minutes walk east of Solar Slab gully.
P1: 75', 5.10. Mostly fun, 5.9 jamming and laybacking with a technical stem/reach at 3/4 height. This pitch has several stances/rests and ends at a rap station on a big ledge.
P2: 35', 5.10+. Though Swain rates these two pitches the same, P2 is harder, particularly to lead. The crux is quite reminiscent of The Wave on Supercrack Buttress at Indian Creek -- laybacking around a bulge; have a 1.5 Friend size piece ready to go. After about 35' the crack ends at a large roof where there is a rap station. Two short raps to descend. A single 60m rope might just make it from the second anchor to the ground. If you don't do the continuation described below, the leader will be a lot more comfortable if he/she lowers from the end of the 2nd pitch and belays from the first rap station.
It is possible to continue from the second anchor by slab traversing left about 15' and joining the crack system to left which has its own anchors and which Swain rumors to be 5.9 but looks harder. This continuation would add about 50' of climbing and provides an interesting contrast in styles --an abrupt transition from power laybacking to tenuous slabbing -- but is somewhat tricky to protect for the 2nd on without a big piece (~4.5 Camalot). The crux of the traverse is at the start, so the leader is protected adequately. Once the traverse is over, the crack above, which we did not climb, appears to require wide hand pieces, maybe 3 and 3.5 Camalots.
The climber in photo 1 is starting the P1 crux.
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