Aug 9, 2024 · 3 pitches. Lead / Fell/Hung. Such fun!! 10/10! We did the route in 3 pitches with a 70m rope. Here was our breakdown:
P1: we started the first pitch just below the initial crux bolt, first scrambling up to ledge directly below the bolt. Instead of ending the pitch at the first set of anchors, we climbed up through the roof (that typically is the start of the second pitch) and belayed from another set of anchors just above and slightly left of the roof. I found the roof to be very awkward and tricky, and for that alone was happy to be following on the first pitch lol! (5.9)
P2: A short, easy traverse right using the big obvious flake takes you to the start of the off-width crack. I can see why a number 4 cam would work well here, but I agree the extra weight is unnecessary. Instead, bring along a bunch of alpine draws and extend out your placements as there are plenty of ways
To protect the crack by placing smaller gear (1-3” perhaps?) into it deeper parts of it.
After the initial off-width section the crack evens out and this is where the real fun begins. There is a bit of everything…knob climbing on the face, laybacks, hand jams, finger jams, the whole 9 yards. Super easy to protect too. Didn’t need anything bigger than a 3, though wish I brought along medium to large nuts…tons of great placements for them!
I ended the pitch at the bolted anchor a little ways right of the crack at a nice ledge on the face. Though, I suspect this is off route since it’s placement is relatively awkward relative to the rest of the route. Reaching the anchor also involves a short, spooky, unprotected smeary slab traverse out right from the crack.
Don’t do what I did and instead do the much more straightforward and easier option of setting up a gear anchor directly in the crack.
(5.8+?)
P3: Follow the crack up until it ends and head up right through the roof on easy terrain (5.6?) to the top. Follow the cairn trail to the rap anchors, rap once down and walk-off back to the start.
Trad 4 pitches