Avg: 3.3 from 13 votes
|Type:||Sport, 450 ft (136 m), 3 pitches|
|FA:||FA 2015 Ney and Betsy Grant|
|Page Views:||3,873 total · 61/month|
|Shared By:||Ney Grant on Jun 24, 2016|
|Admins:||Aron Quiter, Lurker -, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen|
Many climbing areas are closed along highways 50 and 88 as the fast moving Caldor Fire spreads (as of Aug 30, 2021). Read the Mountain Project forum discussion above, and the Cal Fire incidents map here fire.ca.gov/incidents/ for latest map and information. Be safe mountain neighbors!
P1, all bolts. This climb starts out 5.8 from the ground, then easier climbing up a broad white water streak that flows up to the corner of the big arch (not the roof, which you can't see from ground). Follow the bolts straight up to the corner of the arch then 5.8 again on steeper rock past the arch. The climb then traverses right into a long white water streak (that falls over the middle of the arch) to a two-bolt ring anchor.
P2. One bolt, 5.5. From the anchor climb a short easy one-bolt pitch following the narrowing water streak to a two-bolt anchor that sets you up below the big roof.
P3, Two bolts. The third pitch continues to follow the water streaks through the roof (5.9) and ends at another two-bolt anchor with an easy walk off to the right off the face. The reach moves through the roof are height dependent so if you are shorter than about 5’ 8” they are probably more like 5.10 moves. A bolt protects the move over the roof. You can bypass the difficulty by traversing well to the right under the roof until it can be easily surmounted (5.5R), then traversing back left into the water streaks. From there it is very easy low-angle climbing past a bolt up to the anchor. Skipping the roof gives the climb an overall 5.8 rating. All belay stations have rings so you can rap the route (two ropes) or walk off.
On the topo image found under "Crystal Wall Area", this is climb number 8.