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Routes in Crystal Wall Area

Arch Traverse S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Crystal Blue Persuasion S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Crystal Chute T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Crystal Wall Route S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Friction Affliction T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Ice House Roof S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ice House Roof Direct S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Independence Wall S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
More Affliction T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Red Dawn S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Type: Sport, 450 ft, 3 pitches
FA: FA 2015 Ney and Betsy Grant
Page Views: 1,477 total, 87/month
Shared By: Ney Grant on Jun 24, 2016
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

A quality climb that features steep, crimpy 5.8 climbing past the corner of an arch, then pulling through the 5.9 crux on the third pitch up and over the middle of one of the major features of the entire wall, a long roof.

P1, all bolts. This climb starts out 5.8 from the ground, then easier climbing up a broad white water streak that flows up to the corner of the big arch (not the roof, which you can't see from ground). Follow the bolts straight up to the corner of the arch then 5.8 again on steeper rock past the arch. The climb then traverses right into a long white water streak (that falls over the middle of the arch) to a two-bolt ring anchor.

P2. One bolt, 5.5. From the anchor climb a short easy one-bolt pitch following the narrowing water streak to a two-bolt anchor that sets you up below the big roof.

P3, Two bolts. The third pitch continues to follow the water streaks through the roof (5.9) and ends at another two-bolt anchor with an easy walk off to the right off the face. The reach moves through the roof are height dependent so if you are shorter than about 5’ 8” they are probably more like 5.10 moves. A bolt protects the move over the roof. You can bypass the difficulty by traversing well to the right under the roof until it can be easily surmounted (5.5R), then traversing back left into the water streaks. From there it is very easy low-angle climbing past a bolt up to the anchor. Skipping the roof gives the climb an overall 5.8 rating. All belay stations have rings so you can rap the route (two ropes) or walk off.

Location

Look for broad white water streak that leads up to the left corner of the big arch. The climb goes up that water streak (but then later traverses right to another water streak).

On the topo image found under "Crystal Wall Area", this is climb number 8.

Protection

All bolts. Rings at each belay station.

Photos

Ney Grant
Pollock Pines, CA
 
Ney Grant   Pollock Pines, CA
 
Yeah, the top is pretty easy but one bolt in one long pitch may be a little light so I added a bolt on the runout. ie. There are now two bolts on then upper pitch. Jul 3, 2017
Matt D
Jay, NY
  5.9 PG13
Matt D   Jay, NY
  5.9 PG13
Was feeling intimidated by a 55m 5.9 pitch with only one point of protection (p3). But it turns out to be a one-move pitch (the rest is 5.2) that is well protected. You can get a 0.3-0.4 camalot for a second piece on p2 as well.

Rapping the route is straightforward with double 60m ropes - no need to walk off.

Last weekend it was too hot to climb at the leap, and slickrock was tolerable with a breeze. Jun 22, 2017
Niko Nakamura   Reno
I thought the first pitch was the money, must do at SRD. But, since you're up there, Finish it off and pull the roof on P3. Felt like the bolts were right where you need them like most all the routes in the area! Jun 7, 2017
GizzardJones
Rancho Cordova,CA
  5.9 PG13
GizzardJones   Rancho Cordova,CA
  5.9 PG13
Classic 3 pitch route. I led P1 & P3, Partner P2. P3 is the business over the roof and defines this awesome route. Jul 21, 2016