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May 7, 2025
cool picture of the climb and some gear/ rope management beta richwheaterphoto.smugmug.co… View Comment
Jun 20, 2024
I broke a good hold right before getting to the crux. It might be a bit harder now. View Comment
May 1, 2024
if you like big moves on big holds get on this climb View Comment
Jun 5, 2023
Very spicy. Ledge/ground fall at the crux and very hard to protect, a bolt would've been nice View Comment
Jun 5, 2023
Very good moves! Difficulty wise I found it closer to hard 12 than 12a but none of the moves are much hard… View Comment
May 30, 2023
Still a bit dirty but it will be a nice route when it's all cleaned up. Thanks Phil! A #3 protects the… View Comment
May 17, 2023
The topo says V7. I thought it was about V4 but I'm also pretty tall so I guess it depends. I did it both… View Comment
May 12, 2023
The bolt for the permadraw doesn't look as good as the other bolts. Since it's the crux, it might be worth… View Comment
May 12, 2023
The bolts looked new but most of the hangers were spinning badly. I didn't have something to tighten them w… View Comment
May 12, 2023
The anchor situation on this climb is not ideal. There are 2 bolts with bolt hangers. On one there's a… View Comment
Apr 17, 2023
The FA gave it 5.12b. In our group of 3 we all thought it was more around 5.11. Either way it's a nice bo… View Comment
Apr 12, 2023
I couldn't figure out a way to make this feel easier than hard 5.11 Anyways here's some tall person beta:… View Comment
Oct 23, 2022
A bolt has been added. This climb is now pretty chill and a classic at the grade in lac long View Comment
Oct 17, 2022
Definitely the best 11 I've done in Rumney View Comment
Oct 17, 2022
Ultra classic! I haven't done that many routes in Rumney but so far this one is my favorite View Comment
Oct 3, 2022
Classic line! The best V6 I've done in Quebec so far. If you're having problems finding the problem: fo… View Comment
Oct 3, 2022
Yann is right on. A bomber #1 and #2 before the first bolt. I didn't place any nuts since the bolt wasn't f… View Comment
Sep 23, 2022
3 Pads are enough. A thin pad for the cheatstone help with the dabbing. I used a blanket. View Comment
Sep 20, 2022
Can be done in one mega pitch but you'll have to run it out and manage rope drag View Comment
Sep 19, 2022
For the tides you can check tide-forecast.com/locations… You don’t need to go exactly at low tid… View Comment
Aug 15, 2022
Ultra classic! I did this route again this last weekend and it's even more classic than I remembered. Th… View Comment
Aug 9, 2022
Gear beta from our first attempt: Pitch 2 First part (stemming): #.3/.4 offset, #.3, quickdraw on fixed… View Comment
Jul 25, 2022
Offset cams worked really well on this one and help it feel less like PG13. I ended up using 0.2-0.3, 0.3-0… View Comment
Jul 25, 2022
Rack I was happy with is: 0.5 to 3 doubles with and an extra 0.75 and one 4. View Comment
Jun 13, 2022
Tall person beta vimeo.com/719678481 Some more beta spray: I found the second clip pretty chill from… View Comment
May 13, 2022
The topo says V8, I've heard the holds broke a bit so it's more like V10 now so don't take this grade too s… View Comment
May 13, 2022
I've only heard of Thibault doing this line and I think he said it was something like V10. Here's his vide… View Comment
Dec 9, 2021
Tried climbing this today and there was a huge bee hive with very aggressive bees. I got stung a few times… View Comment
Nov 11, 2021
tall person beta vimeo.com/645008652 View Comment
Nov 11, 2021
tall person beta vimeo.com/645020270 View Comment
Nov 7, 2021
Topo says V7+ so that's what I wrote on the description but I've heard people saying it's V8. If you're tal… View Comment
Aug 5, 2021
I finally tried doing this route yesterday and I had to bail right after the crux. You probably need a skyh… View Comment
Jul 5, 2021
We free climbed Macaque-Attaque yesterday July 4th 2021 with Édouard Mongeau. I was able to redpoint the cr… View Comment
Jun 16, 2021
Beta vimeo.com/537668049 View Comment
Jun 15, 2021
Beta: vimeo.com/563509411 View Comment
Jun 14, 2021
I protected the first crux with a 4 followed by 0.75 and then the second crux with a 2 and a 3 (all bomber)… View Comment
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