Les Grands Galets (Free)

This is both the classic free and aid route on Cap Trinité. We took a 7 days trip to climb the route and freed the whole route over 5 days, spending 3 nights on the wall. This is truly a masterpiece of hard trad climbing. Pretty much every pitch would be four stars if there were single pitches, except for P1. We felt like the grade were a little soft on the face climbing cruxes, but quite stiff on the hard crack sections.

P1 (5.8 R): Climb a huge flake to a tree then to a groove and climb on a series of dirty terrasses following the path of lease resistance. It might not be a good idea to fall. Gain a tree with slings and a pin then mantle to a big flat ledge. (130 ft / 40 m)

P2 (5.12d PG-13): Climb into the quintessential right facing corner using stemming. Pass two good pods, the lower one had a fixed cam into it. The meat of the whole route comes right after the second pod where the crack become a series of flaring pin scars that are too small for fingers. Pure stemming was the way we got through this section. There is a good rest after the crux with an intermediate anchor, right under a small roof. We didn't stop there to belay because for us it didn't make sense. Crank through the roof and follow the corner (finger) to the pendulum crux. At the pendulum anchor, reach left for a hidden hold on the other side of the arete, traverse left into the face to reach the left facing corner and down climb to an anchor. (115 ft / 35 m)

P3 (5.10a G): Climb the handcrack in the corner with hands and tight hands. Reach some ledges with multiple anchors underneath a capped roof. We established our portaledge camp up there. It is sheltered from rockfall and can provide some protection from the elements. We had some issues with mouses and chipmunks eating our food at night so plan accordingly. (100 ft / 30 m)

P4 (5.12a PG-13): Climb easy but runout terrain to reach a huge flake that takes good gear. Follow this until you can traverse left (crux) on face holds at a pin. This didn't felt too hard for the original rating of 5.12a. Clip more pins and a bolt passing a giant hollow flake to a short lieback section, often wet, to a semi-hanging belay underneath the "Enduro Corner". (100 ft / 30 m)

P5 (5.11d G): This is what we called the "Enduro Corner" and AKA "Grosse Douceur". It starts with hands and tight hands and tapers to flaring fingers. This pitch felt quite hard for original rating of 5.11d and was really sustained. Maybe more like 12a/b. The pitch ends at a completely hanging belay with no stance out right. The topo from Stéphane Perron says that linking this pitch into the next one would be considered as hard as 5.13a. (100 ft / 30 m)

P6 (5.12c PG-13): A somehow heady lead that will make you understand where the name "Les Grands Galets" came from. Regain the crack system and climb massive flakes with hands and thigh hands to a very well define crux where the crack disappear. On steeper terrain, use face holds and some welcomed bolts (left) to get through to some moderate climbing. The top section is guarded by a burly, but short roof crack that leads too another cave with 2 bolted belays. (100 ft / 30 m)

P7 (5.12b PG-13): Another pitch that will make you understand the route naming. Step on the blocks, clip a rusty piton (KB) and mantle onto good but sandy foot holds. Clip a good bolt (we removed a super old sling here) and climb the corner on dicey gear until you reach the roof. Place gear and traverse underneath the roof (crux) using knee bars. Reestablish yourself in the corner above the roof and reach a semi-hanging 2-bolt anchor. (100 ft / 30 m)

P8 (5.12a G): Lieback the short but burly corner (crux) on small gear until you can reach the arete and move left on easier ground. Traverse into a lower angle corner and climb this to reach the top of the cliff. This last corner can be wet which might make it feel harder. (100 ft / 30 m)

The climb start right behind the commemorative cross.

It is also possible to access it from the top by walking the trail that leads to the Statue. Follow the trail that lead to the Statue for like 45-60 mins to reach a fine trail that cut right (48.316119, -70.325518). Follow the flagged trail for 20-30 mins. When you reach the cliff edge follow it to your left until it is not possible. You will encounter exposed terrain protected by old fixed rope railings. The top of the climb is marked by a 2-bolts anchor with chain. Go down the mossy chimney.

Doubles from micros to Camalot 3, triples of 0.3, 0.4, 0.5 and 1, offset cams and micro to medium (regular & offset) nuts

The route can easily be rapped with a 60 m rope, but you will have to use the scary tree on P1.