Type: Trad, 950 ft, 8 pitches
FA: Léopold Nadeau & Claude Bérubé, October 1974 FFA : Jean-François Beaulieu & Jean-Pierre Ouellet, September 1999
Page Views: 156 total · 99/month
Shared By: Jerome St Michel on Oct 25, 2019
Admins: Luc-514

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Access Issue: SEPAQ daily fees and raptor closure. Details

Description

This is both the classic free and aid route on Cap Trinité. We took a 6 days trip to climb the route and freed the first 6 pitches over 4 days of climbing. This is truly a masterpiece of hard trad climbing. Pretty much every pitch would be four stars if there were single pitches, except for P1. We felt like the grade were a little soft on the face climbing cruxes, but quite stiff on the hard crack sections.

P1 (5.8 PG-13/R): Climb a huge flake to a tree then to a groove (crux) and climb on a series of dirty terrasses following the path of lease resistance. It might not be a good idea to fall into this section. Gain a tree with slings and a pin then mantle to a big flat ledge. (130 ft)

P2 (5.12c/d PG-13): Climb into the quintessential right facing corner using stemming. Pass two good pods, the lower one had a fixed cam into it. The meat of the whole route comes right after the second pod where the crack become a series of flaring pin scars that are to small for fingers. Pure stemming was the way we got through this section. There is a good rest after the crux with an intermediate anchor, right under a small roof. We didn't stop there to belay because for us it didn't make sense. Crank through the roof and follow the corner (finger) to the pendulum crux. At the pendulum anchor, reach left for hidden holds on the other side of the arete, traverse left into the face to reach the right facing corner and down climb to an anchor. (115 ft)

P3 (5.9/5.10a G): Climb the handcrack in the corner with hands and tight hands. Reach some ledges with multiple anchors underneath a capped roof. We established our portaledge camp up there. It is sheltered from rockfall and can provide some protection from the elements. (100ft)

P4 (5.11c/d PG-13): Climb easy but runout terrain to reach a huge flake that takes good gear. Follow this until you can traverse left (crux) on face holds at a pin. This didn't felt too hard for the original rating of 5.12a. Clip more pins and a bolt passing a giant hollow flake to a short lieback section to a hanging belay underneath the "Enduro Corner". (100ft)

P5 (5.12a/b G): This is what we called the "Enduro Corner" and AKA "Grosse Douceur". It starts with hands and tight hands and tapers to flaring fingers. This pitch felt quite hard for original rating of 5.11d and was really sustained. The pitch ends at a completely hanging belay with no stance out right. The topo from Stéphane Perron says that linking this pitch into the next one would be considered as hard as 5.13a. (100ft)

P6 (5.12b/c PG-13): A somehow heady lead that will make you understand where the name "Les Grands Galets" came from. Regain the crack system and climb massive flakes with hands and thigh hands to a very well define crux where the crack disappear. On steeper terrain, use face holds and some welcomed bolts (left) to get through to some moderate climbing. The top section is guarded by a burly, but short roof crack that leads too another cave with 2 bolted belays. (100ft)

TO BE CONTINUED

Location

The climb start right behind the commemorative cross.

Protection

Doubles from micros to Camalot 3, triples of 0.3, 0.4, 0.5 and 1, offset cams and micro to medium (regular & offset) nuts

Photos

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