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Elevation: 584 ft
GPS: 46.81285, -72.10098
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 111,582 total · 933/month
Shared By: Luc-514 on Apr 30, 2014
Admins: Luc-514, Thierry Berland, Richer Lariviere
Warning Access Issue: This Cliff is insured for liability by the FQME DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Lac Long has now become the newest jewel for rock-climbing in Quebec.
With the work of climbers, outdoor organizations and the city of St-Alban, the area was purchased in 2008 to allow secured access for the future, the whole area is being converted into a nature park allowing rock-climbing.

Please check the parks website for relevant access issues, camping and more information.
ACTION PLANS D'EAU PLEIN AIR
2, rang de l'église sud, C.p. 339
Saint-Alban de Portneuf (Québec)
Canada G0A 3B0
www.natureportneuf.com
info@natureportneuf.com
+1-418-284-4232 phone
+1-855-284-4232 toll free

The Cliff is located on the other side of the lake and stream running from it, there's a couple bridges crossing it.

Even though it sports many sport routes, the area's ethics emphasizes Trad climbing, don't expect to find bolts when trad pro will fit.

Belays are equipped with bolts and chains, don't top-rope directly off the chains or glue ins, don't lower off the glue-ins, avoid lowering off the chains (rap if you can), on popular routes, don't hog the bolts and chain ends (leave them free for people descending).

Gear
60m single rope is ok, though it might be tight on some raps. Bring a full range rack from multiple small cams and nuts to larger pieces.

Parking
Use the first parking lot, Parking is $6.00 you can always carpool in Saint-Alban if you want.
A year pass for a car has now dropped to $25.00.
(prices 2015-04-29)

Some info on EQ
Some info on EQ

PDF Topo 2016:
version Francaise sur Escalade Quebec
English version on Escalade Quebec
Designed by Arian Manchego
Illustrations Valérie Levée, Jeff Beaulieu
Translation A. Manchego, Loic Briand

Getting There Suggest change

From Montreal 2 h 30 min
  • Highway 40 East
  • Exit 254 to the 363 North
  • At the entrance of Saint-Marc-des-Carrieres, take a right at the fork onto Avenue Principale
  • Continue heading North on Rang de l'Eglise S
  • Cross the 354 towards Saint-Alban
  • Cross the Saint-Anne River (there's Saint-Anne Gorges climbing area on your left)
  • Stay on rue principale/Rang de l'Eglise N, cross the town heading North-East
  • After a left curve, you're now on Route Montambault
  • At a sharp right turn, take a left onto a dirt road heading North-West (the road on the right is rang de la Riviere Noire)
  • Drive for 2km to a Tee intersection, take a right on chemin du lac Long.
  • Drive for 7km and park at the first lot, the next lots are for cars with trailers.

From Quebec 1h 30 min
  • Highway 40 West
same as above

162 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Lac Long Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Lac Long

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 49
Fougère à me plaire
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 26
Super Mimi
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 37
Aéro-Tango
Trad 2 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 13
Polaris
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 36
Incandescence
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 15
Goliath
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 16
Party de brosse
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 19
Célébration
Trad
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 26
Atomic Limbo
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 22
Solaris
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 25
Grosse Face
Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 15
La cha-cha d'Obélix
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 19
Fellation
Trad
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 10
Apollon
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 10
Atmosphéria
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Fougère à me plaire 09 Fougère à me plaire
 49
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Super Mimi 12 La Croisée des Che…
 26
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Aéro-Tango 11 Aéro-Tango
 37
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Polaris 07 La Plage
 13
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Incandescence 10 l'Antre du Dragon
 36
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Goliath 05 l'Arène
 15
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Party de brosse 12 La Croisée des Che…
 16
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Célébration 15 Célébration
 19
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Atomic Limbo 13 Atomic Limbo
 26
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Solaris 07 La Plage
 22
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Grosse Face 07 La Plage
 25
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
La cha-cha d'Obélix 11 Aéro-Tango
 15
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Fellation 10 l'Antre du Dragon
 19
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Apollon 05 l'Arène
 10
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Atmosphéria 14 Le Cosmodrome
 10
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
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