Elevation: 584 ft
GPS: 46.813, -72.101 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 49,364 total · 645/month
Shared By: Luc-514 on Apr 30, 2014
Admins: Luc-514
Access Issue: COVID-19 Restez chez dans votre région / Stay in your region Details
Access Issue: This Cliff is insured for liability by the FQME Details

Description

Lac Long has now become the newest jewel for rock-climbing in Quebec.
With the work of climbers, outdoor organizations and the city of St-Alban, the area was purchased in 2008 to allow secured access for the future, the whole area is being converted into a nature park allowing rock-climbing.

Please check the parks website for relevant access issues, camping and more information.
ACTION PLANS D'EAU PLEIN AIR
2, rang de l'église sud, C.p. 339
Saint-Alban de Portneuf (Québec)
Canada G0A 3B0
www.natureportneuf.com
info@natureportneuf.com
+1-418-284-4232 phone
+1-855-284-4232 toll free

The Cliff is located on the other side of the lake and stream running from it, there's a couple bridges crossing it.

Even though it sports many sport routes, the area's ethics emphasizes Trad climbing, don't expect to find bolts when trad pro will fit.

Belays are equipped with bolts and chains, don't top-rope directly off the chains or glue ins, don't lower off the glue-ins, avoid lowering off the chains (rap if you can), on popular routes, don't hog the bolts and chain ends (leave them free for people descending).

Gear
60m single rope is ok, though it might be tight on some raps. Bring a full range rack from multiple small cams and nuts to larger pieces.

Parking
Use the first parking lot, Parking is $6.00 you can always carpool in Saint-Alban if you want.
A year pass for a car has now dropped to $25.00.
(prices 2015-04-29)

Some info on EQ
Some info on EQ

PDF Topo 2016:
version Francaise sur Escalade Quebec
English version on Escalade Quebec
Designed by Arian Manchego
Illustrations Valérie Levée, Jeff Beaulieu
Translation A. Manchego, Loic Briand

Getting There

From Montreal 2 h 30 min
  • Highway 40 East
  • Exit 254 to the 363 North
  • At the entrance of Saint-Marc-des-Carrieres, take a right at the fork onto Avenue Principale
  • Continue heading North on Rang de l'Eglise S
  • Cross the 354 towards Saint-Alban
  • Cross the Saint-Anne River (there's Saint-Anne Gorges climbing area on your left)
  • Stay on rue principale/Rang de l'Eglise N, cross the town heading North-East
  • After a left curve, you're now on Route Montambault
  • At a sharp right turn, take a left onto a dirt road heading North-West (the road on the right is rang de la Riviere Noire)
  • Drive for 2km to a Tee intersection, take a right on chemin du lac Long.
  • Drive for 7km and park at the first lot, the next lots are for cars with trailers.

From Quebec 1h 30 min
  • Highway 40 West
same as above

132 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Lac Long Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Lac Long

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 13
Super Mimi
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 3
Mary Ann
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 7
Ferrocarril
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 18
Aéro-Tango
Trad 2 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
Une âme à vendre
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 8
Atomic Limbo
Trad
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 8
La cha-cha d'Obélix
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 10
Fellation
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 3
Gladiateurs
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 8
Cosmic Boogie
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 6
Apollon
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 3
From Portneuf with Love
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Super Mimi c. Central Area > 7 Aéro-Tango
 13
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Mary Ann d. Southern Area > 5 Les Joyeux naufragés
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Ferrocarril d. Southern Area > 1 La Croisée des Chem…
 7
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Aéro-Tango c. Central Area > 7 Aéro-Tango
 18
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Une âme à vendre d. Southern Area > 1 La Croisée des Chem…
 4
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Atomic Limbo d. Southern Area > 2 Atomic Limbo
 8
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
La cha-cha d'Obélix c. Central Area > 7 Aéro-Tango
 8
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Fellation c. Central Area > 6 l'Antre du Dragon
 10
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Gladiateurs c. Central Area > 1 l'Arène
 3
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Cosmic Boogie c. Central Area > 7 Aéro-Tango
 8
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Apollon c. Central Area > 1 l'Arène
 6
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
From Portneuf with Love d. Southern Area > 1 La Croisée des Chem…
 3
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
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