Type: Trad, 130 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Nicolas Simard, August 2003
Page Views: 754 total · 14/month
Shared By: rocknice2 on May 22, 2014
Admins: Luc-514

You & This Route

12 Opinions

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Access Issue: This Cliff is insured for liability by the FQME Details


1st pitch, 5.9+ 20m.
Start in the beautiful hand crack in the right-facing corner.
Climb to reach the bolted belay station on the ledge, under the big roof.

2nd pitch, 5.9 20m.
Pass the big roof on its left.
Once past the roof, follow the wide diagonal crack up and right.

1re longueur, 5.9+ 20m.
Départ dans la belle fissure au fond du diedre faisant face à droite pour arriver au relais sur la vire, sous le gros toit.

2e longueur, 5.9 20m.
Sortir le gros toit par la gauche. En tournant le toit, suivre la fissure oblique vers la droite. Rappel de 30 mètres jusqu’au sol.


The wide diagonal crack above the roof will take a large cam but you're on buckets so it may not be needed.
Bolted belays
30 meter rappel to the ground.


Montreal, Quebec
Luc-514   Montreal, Quebec  
At the final anchor, belay your second with a setup that allows you to feed out slack under tension. If your second doesn’t succeed the traverse under the roof, he or she will swing out, away from the wall. If this happens, the best option is to lower them down to the ledge so they can try again.

Attention, au relais d’en haut, il sera difficile de communiquer avec la personne sous le toit. De plus, il est important d’assurer le second avec un système qui permet de donner du mou sous tension (un grigri par exemple), car si votre second ne réussit pas la traverse sous le toit, il ou finira suspendu dans le vide et ne pourra pas rejoindre la roche sans que vous le descendiez. Aug 4, 2014
Greg Kuchyt
Richmond, VT
Greg Kuchyt   Richmond, VT
One of the best routes at the cliff. Pitch one is a mix of Indian Creek, old school wide-ness, and Gunks. Pitch 2 is straight out of the Gunks. A really special line. Double #2 and #3 can be helpful for Pitch 1, a #4 might make your life easier but isn't necessary. Jul 5, 2015