Type: Sport, 110 ft (33 m)
GPS: 44.02081, -71.25632
FA: RW & RH. 9/3/23
Page Views: 259 total · 8/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Sep 5, 2023
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: You may see the Peregrine Falcons closure signs for Painted Walls on the approach path to Rainbow but, so far, Rainbow has always remained open. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

With age comes wisdom and, while still giving all due respect to those who "Bansai charged" up unprotected rock like Bonsai, we opted for a more protected approach.

(BTW - no typos in either name. It’s a Bansai Charge and a Bonsai Tree.) 

START about 15 +/- ft left of Bonsai just left of a Left-facing, curving flake about 12 ft up, and below a line of bolts. After clipping B1 either make a big step down to the right and then climb up to B2 (or, more difficult, move diagonally up right to B2 after clipping B1.)  Now move back up and left and then pretty much directly up. Beware the polished, slippery, white-ish rock around B5. At B7 move right about 5 ft (* Var ? ) to momentarily join Bonsai. Up over the big holes, then step left and up. ( a bit run-out to the Bonsai piton**, but several grades easier than the climbing lower on the route, and we didn’t want to inadvertently put a bolt in Bonsai.) 

 ** There’s a fixed angle piton on Bonsai on your right in a small, left-facing flake.  Now romp up 40 ft of 5.3 on a left-trending diagonal to the double bolt anchor on Super Slab / CWD.

110 ft, 5.9 

* Var? - Possible Variation (?) - at B7 step left then up on very thin slab. May need brushing.

May be TR’d from the Super Slab anchor with a 70m rope, but not a 60m! 

Location Suggest change

First climb on the Bonsai slab.

  From where the climber’s path reaches the slab near the climb Perfect Wave, walk right and then down right, crossing over a rotting log ( 2023) continuing right.  [ You are now about 35 ft directly below the Tsunami starting Ledge.]  Another 30-40 +/- feet to the right brings you to the Bonsai Slab.

Protection Suggest change

8 draws for 7 bolts and one fixed piton, optional #3 Camalot for hole above last bolt. 

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