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Routes in 4. The Perfect Wave Slab

Bonsai T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c X
Bubbles T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Crazy Woman Driver T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c X
Cruise Control T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
First Wave, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Friday's Friend T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Perfect Wave T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Petroglyph, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Silver Surfer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Super Slab T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Take A Giant Step 5.8+PG / 5.7-5.6 PG-R T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tsunami T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
V-2 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Mike Hartrich, Joe Cote 1975
Page Views: 166 total · 4/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Oct 8, 2014
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description [Suggest Change]

Pretty sure we "found" P1 of this route and cleaned it in 2014. The climb, I would assume, was named for the tiny pine tree at the end of pitch 1...a tree that was JUST AS TINY IN 1975! A US Forest Ranger confirmed that given the lack of nutrients, it is entirely possible that this is the same tree today, and it may well be more than 50 years old! (Same goes for the Crazy Woman Driver tree) PLEASE RESPECT THE TREE !

Approach - This climb starts on sort of a "Sub-Slab" of the Perfect Wave Slab. This slab starts just beyond, and below the level of the dirt ledge of the approach to "Tsunami Ledge". At present three climbs start on this sub-slab: Bonsai, Super Slab and Friday's Friend. See the TOPO of the "Bonsai Slab". (Petroglyph is further right.)

The easiest way to get to the base of this "Sub-Slab" is: From where the climber's path reaches the slab, move right along the base 25-35 ft (same as if going to Tsunami) but before going uphill cut right and contour around to the right 100 +/- ft to the base of the slab.

Bonsai - P1 - [NOTE: Someone has placed a 3-inch square piece of granite emblazoned with "Bonsai" in the crack at the START.]
About in the center of sub-slab is sort of a mini-buttress formed by a shallow corner that curves left, and another above that curves right. (Photo, see also the Topo).

 START P1 in the left corner, step right onto the "buttress", climb left of a rotten, curving flake (no gear here!) and continue up the face (crux, maybe not as hard as 5.9-, but is certainly R/X) finally reaching some smooth (read: "slippery") white rock at the first protection: a flake-crack that curves up and left. Now the pro comes in overabundance (large cams in solution holes) and a step left and easy climbing to the F.A. belay about 4-5 ft left of the "Bonsai Tree". (Piton in flake). About 80-90 ft call it 5.8+ to 5.9- R/X

[Note 1: If you're climbing on a 70m rope, most people would elect to continue up and left to the Super Slab/Crazy Woman Driver/V2 belay and forgo P2 and P3 of Bonsai. This is the line of P1 of Crazy Woman Driver.

 Note 2: With a directional in this piton (just left of the "Bonsai Pine", this pitch can be TR'd with a 70m rope (but not a 60m !) from the anchor at the end of Pitch 1 of Super Slab, reachable by a 5.2-5.3 scramble from "Tsunami Ledge".]

P2 - Climb up and slightly right to the tree island above. 80 +/- ft 5.3-5.4 P1 & P2 can be combined, but please avoid the rope running on the "Bonsai Tree" by clipping the pin.

P3 - Move to the right end of the tree island, make a step up on quartzite-type rock, then up the clean slab above 5.5 ( 5.4-5.3 R/X) 100 ft to a double bolt anchor slightly left, or 130 ft to the trees.

Descent - From the double bolt anchor at the top of the climb, Rap with 2 60Meter ropes to the ground BEING SURE TO GO TO CLIMBER'S/RAPELLER'S RIGHT (viewer's /rope-thrower's LEFT) OF THE TREE ISLAND.

Alternately, traverse 150-200 ft left across the slab to the Silver Surfer Rap Station and make three single-rope raps.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Normal rack, top of pitch 1 has placements for two # 3 (blue) Camalots, but most climbers probably only need to use the higher of the two placements (after the step left)

Photos

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