Type: Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches
FA: Susan Patenaude, Ed Webster, Bob Rotert Nov 1980
Page Views: 642 total · 8/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Oct 8, 2014
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Apr 2021 Painted Walls are closed for Peregren Falcon nesting (until about late July-Aug) , but Rainbow is open. You may see the Painted Walls closure signs on the approach path to Rainbow. Details

Description

One of the few climbs in New Hampshire whose First Ascent was led by a woman. Having never drilled a bolt, Susan decided not to try her first while standing on 5.7 friction, and just led up through the P2 crux.

See also the ROUTE PHOTO posted to Cruise Control.

Approach - The first pitch of this climb is probably the same as Bonsai (see that climb for the approach description) and then from the top of the "Bonsai Super-Slab" it probably coincides with the climb "Super Slab" for 50 ft to the P1 belay shared with "Super Slab". ( Piton & bolts at this belay, the piton is original from Super Slab's FA in 1973.)

However, it is possible to easily climb from the right end of the Tsunami Ledge to this belay: it is about 60 ft up and to the right at the base of a left-curving flake that turns into an arch. About 15-20 ft above the flake is a 2 ft pine tree, similar to the "Bonsai Tree", and maybe just as old! (I.e. 50+ years, please take care!]

P1 - (As climbed by FA party) Climb the first pitch of Bonsai. (5.8 to 5.9- R/X)  Where Bonsai goes right and up (at the Bonsai tree), join Super Slab and continue on a rising traverse up and to the left for another 50 +/- ft to the Super Slab / CWD belay at the base of left-facing flake, a few feet right of an intrusion of quartz. 125 +/- ft.

ALTERNATELY- Climb 60 ft up and right from the end of the Tsunami ledge to the belay at the end of P1. 60-70 ft 5.2

NOTE: From this anchor the ground can be reached (and Bonsai TR'd) with a single 70m rope, but not a single 60m.

P2 - Climb directly up, passing to the left* of the tiny pine tree, and headed for a 4" arching "overlap". Upon reaching it, step left ( crux, somehow Susan got gear in!?) then over it at the obvious step. Now easily up to a dbl bolt anchor (slightly left, and about 50 ftdirectlybelow a prominent crack in the huge horizontal flake above the slab ) or continue to the trees. 90ft to anchor, 140 +/- ft to trees 5.8+ / 5.9- X   [ * Note: the bolt-line to the right is the climb "V2" (5.6) ]

Top Rope P2 - If 5.8 - 5.9 X isn't your "thing", P2 can be TR'd by climbing either V2 (5.6),  Cruse Control (5.7+), or P2 of Super Slab (5.6) and traversing the low-angle slab in the appropriate direction to reach the dbl bolt anchor.  

Descent - From the dbl bolt anchor at the end of P2,  Rap or lower-off back to the P1 anchor with a single 60m, or  with 2 ropes directly back to the Tsunami ledge. To rap to the ground from the Super Slab/CWD anchor you need a 70m rope or double ropes. You can downclimb 5.2, or tension-traverse rap, to the Tsunami ledge with a single 60m rope, but don't slip!

Protection

Parachute

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