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Routes in 4. The Perfect Wave Slab

Bonsai T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c X
Bubbles T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Crazy Woman Driver T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c X
Cruise Control T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
First Wave, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Friday's Friend T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Perfect Wave T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Petroglyph, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Silver Surfer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Super Slab T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Take A Giant Step 5.8+PG / 5.7-5.6 PG-R T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tsunami T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
V-2 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Susan Patenaude, Ed Webster Nov 1980
Page Views: 192 total, 5/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Oct 8, 2014
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

One of the few climbs in New Hampshire whose First Ascent was led by a woman. Having never drilled a bolt, Susan decided not to try her first while standing on 5.7 friction, and just led up through the P2 crux.

See also the ROUTE PHOTO posted to Cruise Control.

Approach - The first pitch of this climb is probably the same as Bonsai (see that climb for the approach description) and then from the top of the "Bonsai Super-Slab" it probably coincides with the climb "Super Slab" for 50 ft to a P1 belay shared with "Super Slab". ( Pitons & bolt at this belay, the lowest piton is original from Super Slab's FA in 1973.)
However, it is possible to easily climb from the right end of the Tsunami Ledge to this belay: it is about 60 ft up and to the right at the base of a left-curving flake that turns into an arch. About 15-20 ft above the flake is a 2 ft pine tree, similar to the "Bonsai Tree", and maybe just as old! (I.e. 50+ years, please take care!]

P1 - Climb the first pitch of Bonsai. (5.9- R/X) Then continue on a rising traverse to the left for 50 +/- ft to the belay (fixed pins) at the base of the arching flake. 150 +/- ft.
ALTERNATELY- Climb 60 ft up and right from the end of the Tsunami ledge to the belay. 60 ft 5.2
NOTE:From this belay the ground can be reached with a single 70m rope, but not a single 60m.

P2 - Climb directly up, passing to the left of the tiny pine tree, and headed for a 4" arching "overlap". Upon reaching it, step left ( crux, somehow Susan got gear in!?) then over it at the obvious step. Now easily up to a dbl bolt anchor (slightly left) or up to the trees. 90ft to anchor, 125 +/- ft to trees 5.8+ / 5.9- X

Descent(s) - 1) Rap from trees with 2 ropes. 2) Alternately, from about 10 feet above the overlap move up-and-slightly LEFT to a double bolt anchor. From here, a 60M makes it back to the belay stance (obviously a 70M is better). From the belay, Down-Climb (or tension-traverse rap) back to the "Tsunami" base tree ledge.

Protection

Parachute

Photos

john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
If memory serves me right..Bob Rotert(who also was on the f/a team) called this one a "good N carolina) type route.

I say even a bit run out for Rotert..and that's really saying quite a lot ! Aug 9, 2016