Crazy Woman Driver
Avg: 2.7 from 3 votes
Routes in 4. The Perfect Wave Slab
|Bonsai T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c X|
|Bubbles T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Crazy Woman Driver T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c X|
|Cruise Control T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|First Wave, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Friday's Friend T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Perfect Wave T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Petroglyph, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X|
|Silver Surfer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X|
|Super Slab T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R|
|Take A Giant Step 5.8+PG / 5.7-5.6 PG-R T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Tsunami T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|V-2 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R|
|Type:||Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Susan Patenaude, Ed Webster Nov 1980|
|Page Views:||192 total, 5/month|
|Shared By:||Robert Hall on Oct 8, 2014|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall|
DescriptionOne of the few climbs in New Hampshire whose First Ascent was led by a woman. Having never drilled a bolt, Susan decided not to try her first while standing on 5.7 friction, and just led up through the P2 crux.
See also the ROUTE PHOTO posted to Cruise Control.
Approach - The first pitch of this climb is probably the same as Bonsai (see that climb for the approach description) and then from the top of the "Bonsai Super-Slab" it probably coincides with the climb "Super Slab" for 50 ft to a P1 belay shared with "Super Slab". ( Pitons & bolt at this belay, the lowest piton is original from Super Slab's FA in 1973.)
However, it is possible to easily climb from the right end of the Tsunami Ledge to this belay: it is about 60 ft up and to the right at the base of a left-curving flake that turns into an arch. About 15-20 ft above the flake is a 2 ft pine tree, similar to the "Bonsai Tree", and maybe just as old! (I.e. 50+ years, please take care!]
P1 - Climb the first pitch of Bonsai. (5.9- R/X) Then continue on a rising traverse to the left for 50 +/- ft to the belay (fixed pins) at the base of the arching flake. 150 +/- ft.
ALTERNATELY- Climb 60 ft up and right from the end of the Tsunami ledge to the belay. 60 ft 5.2
NOTE:From this belay the ground can be reached with a single 70m rope, but not a single 60m.
P2 - Climb directly up, passing to the left of the tiny pine tree, and headed for a 4" arching "overlap". Upon reaching it, step left ( crux, somehow Susan got gear in!?) then over it at the obvious step. Now easily up to a dbl bolt anchor (slightly left) or up to the trees. 90ft to anchor, 125 +/- ft to trees 5.8+ / 5.9- X
Descent(s) - 1) Rap from trees with 2 ropes. 2) Alternately, from about 10 feet above the overlap move up-and-slightly LEFT to a double bolt anchor. From here, a 60M makes it back to the belay stance (obviously a 70M is better). From the belay, Down-Climb (or tension-traverse rap) back to the "Tsunami" base tree ledge.