Mountain Project Logo

Routes in 4. The Perfect Wave Slab

Bonsai T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c X
Bubbles T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Crazy Woman Driver T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c X
Cruise Control T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
First Wave, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Friday's Friend T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Perfect Wave T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Petroglyph, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Silver Surfer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Super Slab T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Take A Giant Step 5.8+PG / 5.7-5.6 PG-R T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tsunami T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
V-2 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Ward Smith and Chris Smith Aug 1984
Page Views: 174 total, 5/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Oct 1, 2014
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Nice moves, but pretty run out to lead!

START - A few feet right of where the climber's path meets the cliff.

P1 - As with First Wave, Take a Giant Step and Perfect Wave, climb the initial slab up to the small maple tree ledge. 70-80 ft 5.4 R

P2 - Move out-and-up to the right 15-20 ft (last gear) and then directly up the slab [Var] headed for a left-arching crack/flake that is about 40-50 ft above you, and 25 +/- feet left of, and slightly below, the flake on the climb Perfect Wave. Belay at a comfortable ledge. (with a Belay/Rap station anchor) 80 ft 5.7+ / 5.8- X

Variation - This drops the grade a point or two, but not the "X" factor. Instead of heading directly for the flake & anchor, move up-and-right to intercept the line of in-cuts and mini-ledges which is the extension of the left-hand of the two dikes on Perfect Wave. 5.6 - 5.7 X

P3- Gear in flake, then up and left following the faint dike, then up, slightly right, to the double bolt anchor. 85-90 ft 5.5-5.6 PG-13/R

Descend - Rap the route. Three single-rope raps, or use two 60 m on the middle station to reach the ground. (or two 70m ropes from the very top bolts.)

Protection

normal rack

Photos

M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
FAists must have scared themselves silly, came to their senses and started putting up properly bolted sport routes, lol. Oct 2, 2014