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Routes in 4. The Perfect Wave Slab

Bonsai T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c X
Bubbles T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Crazy Woman Driver T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c X
Cruise Control T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
First Wave, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Friday's Friend T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Perfect Wave T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Petroglyph, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Silver Surfer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Super Slab T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Take A Giant Step 5.8+PG / 5.7-5.6 PG-R T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tsunami T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
V-2 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Type: Trad, 350 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Paul Ross, Tana Cathcart Aug 7, 1973
Page Views: 255 total, 7/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Oct 8, 2014
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

ANOTHER of the Aug 7, 1973 climbs! This one took a while to find, the key was the piton left from the F.A. After that "it all came together".

Really very nice climbing, although P1 has some pretty hard moves below and just above that pin. Then there are the moves at the top of the face....5.7X. The rating assigned by the "old school" Brit Paul Ross was 5.7 and I've kept that as a 5.7+ for consistency, but I think the climbing is harder than that!

Pitch 2 is an interesting tour on it's own, and highly recommended provided you have a full set of TriCams. Just like Crazy Woman Driver, one can get to P2's start easily from the Tsunami "base" Ledge.

See ROUTE PHOTO posted to Cruise Control.

Approach - To approach pitch 1, use the same approach as for Bonsai.

START - (See also the Topo) About 25-30 ft right and uphill from Bonsai, and just left of dark, mossy, rock with a large "scoop" stance about 6 ft off the ground. (Photo) Just left of the "scoop" a faint dike rises up and slightly left. (photo) This dike is best observed in the late afternoon sunlight.

P1 - Make the opening thin face moves to gain the micro dike (or the 'scoop') [hey, the first 10ft never counts in the rating, does it?!] Then follow the dike (5.7+ to 5.8 R) to an undercling flake [Var.] on the right (above and to the right is the 1973 piton, driven down "behind" the flake, to the right of the tiny tree). Now easily up to a large ledge, then Left to a right-facing flake that leads to the dike which are now "twin SEAMS" (ya, they did look like cracks from below, didn't they!). Up these (5.7 R/X) to a good ledge system. [possible to belay here] Now a rising traverse left (crossing Bonsai) on much easier ground for 50-60 +/- feet to the belay (pitons) at the right-hand-side of a curving flake that turns into an arch. 130-140 ft 5.7+ to 5.8 R/X
NOTE:From the belay the ground can be reached with a single 70m rope, but not a single 60m.

Variation- Instead of climbing up under the undercling, step left to a short right-facing flake; up this then back right to the main route. Unfortunately, the pro at the flake is less than ideal AND you are out-of-position for clipping the piton.

P2- A VERY nice pitch which should see more traffic using the easy approach from the Tsunami ledge. (See Crazy Woman Driver for details) BRING TRICAMS !

P2- Step left from the belay (thus crossing Crazy Woman Driver) and then over the quartz intrusions, then up and slightly left headed for a line of three "partially formed" solution pockets. Up these to a shallow ramp [5-5 / 5.6] (the "5th pocket" is fully formed and accepts a large TriCam). Continue up to another, smaller solution hole (small TriCam or Orange Alien). Here, move left [Var. 2.] and up along a line of solution pockets and an interesting quartz dike. (At this point you're about 15 ft right of bolt #3 on Cruise Control.) Now straight up, passing a "Red #1 Camalot" solution pocket to the top of the slab. 140 +/-ft 5.6 -5.7 PG with TriCams, "X" without

Descend - There is now (2015) a rap station [at the top of Cruise Control] on a tree that allows for a double-60M-rope rap back to the "Tsunami" tree ledge; double 70M's get you all the way to the ground.

Alternate Descent: move 40+/- ft left of the Cruise Control rap-tree to the rap route of Silver Surfer's Rap line. ( 3 single rope raps, or 1 single and one double-rope rap)

In 1973 the F.A. party probably went 60-70 feet left to the trees and established what became, over the decades, the "mankiest anchor in NH" (see photo) It's still there, on a triple-trunked oak, complete with a STEEL biner! (It's now backed up.)

Variation 2- Climb straight up, passing the HUGE, 18" solution pocket complete with a "garden" (in the spring) and, above it, another "Cam friendly" hole to either a 2 bolt anchor, or the trees 50ft above the anchor.

Descent from the Variation - From the double bolt anchor, one 60 or 70 meter rope back to the belay stance...or double rope rap back to the Tsunami Ledge. The trees above this variation (and Crazy W.D.) are pretty "manky", so if you miss the bolted anchor, traverse left to either the Cruise Control tree-rap, or to the double bolts at the top of Silver Surfer.

Protection

BRING TriCams ! and a std rack
John Halupowski
Intervale, N.H.
  5.7+ R
John Halupowski   Intervale, N.H.
  5.7+ R
Very clean rock. A brown tricam (or 2) is useful. Nov 4, 2015
ANM
ANM  
I don't think this is right: "At this point you're about 15 ft right of bolt #3 on Perfect Wave". It certainly doesn't jive with the line drawn on the photo.
15 ft right of Perfect wave would put you over on Tsunami. Did you mean 3rd bolt on Cruise control?
[Admin's NOTE: Yes, AMN is 100% correct and this has been corrected in the text. R. Hall] Oct 16, 2015