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Routes in 4. The Perfect Wave Slab

Bonsai T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c X
Bubbles T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Crazy Woman Driver T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c X
Cruise Control T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
First Wave, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Friday's Friend T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Perfect Wave T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Petroglyph, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Silver Surfer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Super Slab T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Take A Giant Step 5.8+PG / 5.7-5.6 PG-R T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tsunami T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
V-2 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 225 ft
FA: Joe Cote & Mike Hartrich, 1975
Page Views: 504 total, 13/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Oct 8, 2014
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Another beautiful climb on the "Perfect Wave Slab". Handren gave it 3 stars out of 3 (the only such rating he gave to any Rainbow climb).

See the ROUTE PHOTO posted to Cruise Control.

Approach- From where the climber's path reaches the slab, walk right along the base about 35-40 ft. Go uphill to a dirt ledge below a brownish 12ft-high slab. Scramble or belay-climb up the 12 ft face to a large ledge with a couple of pine trees, one of which is knocked over.

An interesting alternate approach is to climb Perfect Wave (5.7) as far as the threaded anchor, and WITH A 70 METER ROPE, thread the anchor and then lower down ("tension traverse" downhill) Tsunami to this same ledge. Don't try it with a 60M rope!...and don't try it as your first ( or even 2nd) tension traverse.

P1 - From the tree ledge (see topo), climb up and left to the obvious dike; follow this to the threaded anchor of Perfect Wave. 115 ft 5.6

Descent- Thread the anchor and lower back with a 70M, or continue climbing up to the top of the slab and the bolted anchor at the top of Silver Surfer.

Protection

Usual rack, at least one natural thread along the way; and the smaller Aliens are useful.

Photos

Tony Telesco
Newport, VT
 
Tony Telesco   Newport, VT
 
If you wanted to go super light on the rack this climb can be well protected with only tri-cams and threaded runners - I think I placed 3 of each. Oct 26, 2015