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Routes in 4. The Perfect Wave Slab

Bonsai T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c X
Bubbles T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Crazy Woman Driver T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c X
Cruise Control T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
First Wave, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Friday's Friend T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Perfect Wave T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Petroglyph, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Silver Surfer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Super Slab T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Take A Giant Step 5.8+PG / 5.7-5.6 PG-R T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tsunami T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
V-2 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 215 ft, 2 pitches
FA: FRA R Hall & S Matz Aug 2014
Page Views: 217 total, 6/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Oct 1, 2014
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

The left-most route on the Perfect Wave Slab, this climb takes the straight-up line on the white rock just to the right of the brownish rock the marks the end of the Mid-Section. See ROUTE PHOTO posted to either Take a Giant Step, or Silver Surfer.

START- Just a few feet right of where the climber's path meets the cliff.

P1 - Climb up the darker "base" slab to a 1 ft overlap (gear, overlap has a small birch tree on its far right), step over and then move diagonally right, up to a ledge with a small maple tree. Belay here ( bolt & piton rap anchor) 70-80 ft 5.3- 5.4 (Pretty much the same as Take a Giant Step and Perfect Wave.)

P2 - Move back left 15-20 feet, then directly over the overlap on clean, white rock (gear, small wires or TCU's). Continue on incuts and small ledges (gear possible at flake on right) to a stance below the one bolt. Climb past the bolt (crux, 5.8 G either on the right or left). 15 ft higher there is a rather unique placement for the "blue" Black Diamond wired stopper (photo) and continue on to ledges* (gear). Continue up the easy slab above. Most will want to move up and right to the double bolt anchor at the top of Silver Surfer, but the FA continued straight up golden rock, stepping left (off of the "PW Slab" itself)to finish at a triple-trunked oak, sight of the once "mankyest anchor in NH". [photo in Super Slab] 180 ft 5.8 G / 5.5-5.6 PG
* These ledges were the original belay for "Take a Giant Step" and could be used as as an alternate belay.

Protection

Small-to-medium wires or TCU's, medium wire nut (Blue BD Stopper"
petr07 Lindahl  
  5.8
No no. Sorry. Comment wasn't intended to mean that anyone reading your text might assume that a 70 would reach. Mostly just saying the height and nature of the rock tempted us to try it in a single pitch...and that was a mistake. (Hadn't read your description before getting on it, tbh). Jul 6, 2015
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
 
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
 
I'm usually pretty accurate with my pitch lengths, given in the text as 70-80ft + 180 ft, or about 250 ft. (70m = 228 ft) R. Hall May 26, 2015
petr07 Lindahl  
  5.8
tried to run the route in a single pitch on a 70 meter. didn't quite make it....maybe if you place almost no gear and don't meander at all. May 24, 2015