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Routes in 4. The Perfect Wave Slab

Bonsai T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c X
Bubbles T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Crazy Woman Driver T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c X
Cruise Control T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
First Wave, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Friday's Friend T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Perfect Wave T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Petroglyph, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Silver Surfer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Super Slab T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Take A Giant Step 5.8+PG / 5.7-5.6 PG-R T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tsunami T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
V-2 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Ed Webster, Susan Patenaude November 1980
Page Views: 1,736 total, 20/month
Shared By: j.yager on Aug 18, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

One of the premiere routes on Rainbow. See ROUTE PHOTO posted to either Take a Giant Step or Silver Surfer.


pitch 1: Make your way to the belay ledge w/small birch tree. 5.4, 80ft. [Note, see photo for the variation "Dike Line" START. Usually, if one takes this start one belays at the base of the corner that is below the dikes.]

pitch 2: Move up and right towards two well placed, but hard to find 3/8" bolts (Originally 1/4" bolts drilled by hand on the lead). [See photo of the two dikes and location of bolts.] Bolts protect the crux, then layback from vertical flakes to fixed slings. 5.7

pitch 3: Run it out to the dbl bolt anchor, or trees. (Can combine with P2 with a 60M rope, going to the double bolt anchor on Silver Surfer.)

Location

Ford the Swift river and cut into the woods to the Nanamocomuck ski trail. Find a small wooden sign with mileages marked on it. From here, turn north into the woods...[see full description in the "Getting There" section for the main cliff.]

bring two ropes for the descent rappel

Protection

small to medium gear,
bolts protect face moves on 2nd pitch,
fixed slings, chains at the top
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.7
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
  5.7
As you look up the slab from near the top of the corner on P2 there are two obvious dike lines, the bolts are located in the right-hand dike. Oct 1, 2014
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.7
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
  5.7
If you have a 70m rope, a neat "trick" is to set up the 2nd pitch anchor at the fixed slings as a top rope and then lower down Tsunami all the way to the belay ledge for Tsunami and Cruse Control. The second then follows up Perfect Wave and also lowers down Tsunami. You can then pull the rope to lead, or TR Tsunami.

Like many of the climbs on Rainbow, this would get "4 stars" if it were just a bit longer, or was a bit more interesting after the crux. Nov 1, 2013