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Routes in 4. The Perfect Wave Slab

Bonsai T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c X
Bubbles T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Crazy Woman Driver T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c X
Cruise Control T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
First Wave, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Friday's Friend T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Perfect Wave T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Petroglyph, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Silver Surfer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Super Slab T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Take A Giant Step 5.8+PG / 5.7-5.6 PG-R T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tsunami T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
V-2 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Type: Trad, 215 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Kurt and Karen Moffat Winkler Sept 1983
Page Views: 70 total, 2/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Oct 8, 2014
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Two stars as a Top Rope, set by leading P1 of "Friday's Friend" and P2 of Bonsai..

Another "Kurt Winkler" friction special. According to Ed Webster, he used tied-off skyhooks as "protection". [ I'm not sure who started first, but the arch-anti-bolting Ken Nichols tried to "popularize" this method of "protection" with an article in one of the climbing magazines of the day. Somehow, it never took off...maybe because an engineer "did the math" on how much force a 1/4" of hard-tempered, chromoly steel would hold before it broke. ]

Approach- The same approach as Bonsai, but continue past "Bonsai", "Super-Slab", and "Friday's" moving uphill along the base. When the land levels off ( about 30-40 ft beyond "Super-Slab's dike & "Friday's" START [and NOT "100 ft"]) look for the "mask" of the "petroglyph" in the rock. (photos)

Note: This climb is not, technically, on the "Perfect Wave Slab", but to the right. Before "Bubbles" was put in, it was the only climb here, so it didn't seem worth creating a separate "Area".

For those whose longevity leans towards not leading 5.8+ X, two 60 m ropes through the Bonsai/Friday's anchor, perhaps extending it, and a judicious directional piece of gear ( or 2) and this route can be TR'd. (Yes, the individual; pitch lengths as described total more than 200ft, but that accounts for some zig-zag which you don't have when rapping or TR-ing.)

P1 - This may, or may not, describe the exact route of the F.A. We solo TR'd this from the trees and I don't remember the "pocket" described in Webster's description, most probably we were a bit too far left (or right)!
Climb over the "mask" and continue up on thin friction, moving right and then back left and up on thinner friction. 3-5" ledges at flake/corners might provide a belay if you're leading. 110-120 +/- 5.8+ X

P2 - Easier climbing to the trees, or start moving left to the Bonsai anchor. 100-110 ft 5.3-5.4

Descend - Rap from the trees with two 2 x 70 M ropes, or from the Bonsai/Friday's anchor with 2 x 60M, being sure to rap to climber's/rapeller's RIGHT (viewer's / rope thrower's LEFT) of the tree island.

Protection

F.A. used skyhooks taped to the rock with duct tape.

Photos

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