Into the Wild

I have shared the topo in the photos section - there is some confusion about the rating of the climb. In 2022 when I established this climb the second pitch was rated 10c or 5.9 A0 and the 3rd pitch had a coupe moves of well bolt-protected hard 5.9. Then in 2023 I established a left, 5.7, crack and face with bolts to crack variation to the second pitch, as well as a super cool 5.7 crack to face with bolts to crack "The Dagger and I" variation to the right on the 3rd pitch. Additionally, instead of doing the final 5.9 Fres-Yes crack on pitch 4 I added a 5.7 one bolt and crack horizontal traverse pitch that gets you over to a huge ledge with 5 different topout pitch options, from 5.6 - 10d......so it is possible to climb this entire route and only climb 5.7! In 2024 I established a similar route just left of ITW called The Cosmic Dance of the Flying Manzanitta 10b or 5.9 A0, coming to MP soon, which takes a direct route to the large Vegas Ledge that the optional 4th pitch traverse on this route climbs too.

P1 (5.7) 150' or 180': Sidepull a wide crack to step over a bulge to start, then a few bolts on easy face lead to a bulge with a splitter crack. Jam the crack to more blocky crack and face climbing to a bolted anchor at a nice ledge - stop here if you are feeling it or continue another 25 feet of low angle climbing past one bolt to an upper belay at Mistletoe Ledge.

P2 (2 options: 5.7 left or 5.10c or 5.9 A0 straight up) 95': Easy fifth and a bolt to Mistletoe ledge and anchor bolts - here you have two options:

 5.7 - left corner / crack leads to two bushes and a step left to face with two bolts and step back right to an easier crack to a 5.7 mantel at a bolt to a 2 bolt anchor you clip and continue traversing fifteen feet right on gradually bigger ledge to the bolted anchor.

10c - a steeper crack straight up leads to 10c moves on a small blank section which can be climbed at 5.9 A0 if you pull on the bolts which are very closely spaced. After the 10c section is fun, wandery 5.9 to a bolted anchor on the right - there is an additional 10c variation pitch with a separate bolted anchor up and left instead of going to the right anchor.

P3 (5.9+ straight up or more fun 5.7 variation that goes right) 105': A short 5.7 crack section, and then either right on bolts at 5.7 or left on harder slab with a 5.9+ section that isn't easily aided. Bolted anchor in the very cool Austin's Aerie cave.

P4 (5.9) 120': The Fres-Yes Crack! A stiff move over a bulge begins a wavy, fun finger crack which leads to a bolt and then a small ledge (skip the anchor here unless rappelling) followed by a short 5.6 section to a large terrace. Bolted anchor.

Alternate P4 (5.7) Wild Traverse variation 45': From the cave traverse left past one bolt and several cracks to a 2 bolt anchor at Vegas Ledge. From Vegas Ledge there are 5 possible topout pitches: 5.7, 5.6, 5.9, 10d, and this all time 5.7 splitter at the far left of the ledge possibly the best 5.7 pitch in the Valley guess it was an old route that got cleaned out recently. I will make a separate page for the Vegas Ledge routes!

From the top, walk right and then up to get onto Carnival Ledge proper. Yose University, an incredible 3-pitch 5.9 route is 200 feet left on the this ledge, or follow the easy climbers trail right and it will lead you back around to the base of the route. 15-20 minutes.

Approach: Just left of penthouse cracks at Swan Slab, walk up the Swan Slab descent trail and head to the base of the cliff, about 5-10 minutes. There's a mini roof to start and a bolt or two visible. Links into "Yose University".

Descent: Rappel the route at any point with a 60m rope. From the summit ledge walk right and up to the Carnival Ledge proper and then head right along a good climbers trail that leads back around to the base of the route. 10 - 20 minutes. If you continue on to "Yose University 5.9+," walk down the Yosemite Falls Trail.

Cams: 1-2 each 0.3"-2"