Type: Trad, TR, 18 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,738 total · 26/month
Shared By: Will S on May 8, 2007
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


48 Opinions

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

These four short cracks on the far left end of Swan Slab make ok solos/highballs or TRs in a variety of styles. You can toprope them all from a single anchor by scrambling up from the left. The cracks are rated (from L to R), 5.10a, 5.10a, 5.11a, 5.8. Crux on the .11a is a bouldery move right off the deck to gain an easier crack, easier for tall people.

Location

On the far left end of Swan Slab, starting off a large flat ledge about 15' off the ground. You can walk up to the ledge from the left. If soloing, when the cracks end traverse the horizontal break to the right past the 5.8 flake to gain a 5.5 face downclimb.

Protection

TR or Solo.
-Ty-
Salt Lake City, UT
 
-Ty-   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Watch out for bears. No kidding. We had one steal our food while we were no more than 15 feet away from our packs.

The walk-off/top-rope approach is decently gnarly. I would avoid it. Aug 1, 2007
Eve8008
Santa Cruz, California
  5.10
Eve8008   Santa Cruz, California
  5.10
For beginner climbers, setting up top rope for the first time was kind of scary. You climb around the rock to the left, maybe 5.1, you could go up with no protection if you feel secure enough. Once up there, we tied ourselves around a tree and then set up the tope rope. There are two rings so you can just slide your rope through them, and then when you are finished, you can rappell down and don't have to climb up again.

The 5.8 route was a lot of fun for practicing jamming and using fists. It's short, but fun. Very nice spot. Apr 15, 2013
Cool little ledge to chill and toprope on a sunny early season day. Each of the cracks requires slightly different technique. Should be easy enough for new climbers to have a good time.

Echoing above comment that the approach required some 5th class moves. Definitely be ready to rap after setting an anchor, downclimbing the approach would be tricky Apr 26, 2013
Ryan Nevius
Chiang Mai, TH
  5.10
Ryan Nevius   Chiang Mai, TH
  5.10
Don't use the rap rings to TR, as Eve suggests...on any climb, for that matter. Sep 28, 2013