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Routes in Swan Slab

5.6 Chimney Above Grant's T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Aid Route T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bay Tree Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bobcat Crack T,TR 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Claude's Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Funge on Munge T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Goat for it T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Grant's Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hanging Flake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lena's Lieback T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Oak Tree Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Oak Tree Flake T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Penelope's Problem T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Penthouse Cracks T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pin Scar Seams T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Seamilicious TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Swan Slab Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Swan Slab Gully T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Swan Slab Squeeze T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ugly Duckling T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Unknown Arete T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Unnamed Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unnamed Crack (the other one) T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed Face Route TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unnamed Thin Crack TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unnamed flared crack / boulder problem TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
V-Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
West Slabs TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Claude Fiddler & Peter Olander - August 1972
Page Views: 2,709 total, 28/month
Shared By: Osprey Overhang on Jan 18, 2010
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

This is a great beginner friendly pitch. Start up broken cracks passing bushes (.7) to a bolted belay with chains (top of Lena'a Lieback).

Top out option:
From the chains, traverse left out an exposed undercling flake (#4camalot) then up and to the right (.7) following crack to the belay ledge. This is the second pitch of Lena's Lieback. Then walk off to thre right. The quick walk off has a short scramble/down climb section to it.

Location

This route is right of Lena's Lieback. It is the last climb on the right side of Swan Slab.

Protection

Single set. This climb shares the anchor chains with Lena's Lieback.

If you choose to top out, use a natural anchor on top of pitch two. Walk off to the right.

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Jux Tolle
Los Angeles, CA
 
Jux Tolle   Los Angeles, CA
 
Easy pitch, with a cool and intro traverse under a flake. Protection is weird, and can cause some rope drag. Nice warm up for the other routes. First climbed with Rex Parker.. then led it 9/16. Super great weather in the valley right now. Sep 19, 2016
Michael Spielman
Reno, NV
Michael Spielman   Reno, NV
This is a great route to practice trad leading and then set up a toprope for Lena's Lieback. Then you can mock lead the significantly harder Lena's or do a lot of laps. Great for a hot day as it's in the shade. In spring though, you'll be competing with the mosquitos. May 12, 2014
Osprey Overhang   ...
 
From the chains, it is possible to pull the roof/arete on the right and climb a short pitch to the top. This pitch is a steep, knobby slab with periodic shallow cracks that take aliens well. Belay from the tree. (5.9) This is more of a natural continuation for Claude's Delight, but is more on the difficult side of the moderate range. Jul 24, 2011
Osprey Overhang   ...
 
Right you are Rex, thanks for the heads up. I've changed the discription to match the reality of these two climbs. Jul 24, 2011
rex parker
las vegas n.v
 
rex parker   las vegas n.v
 
actaully claudes delight is the single pitch 5.7 to the shared anchors. then to the left is three pitches as lena's. that go 5.9, 5.8., 5.8. walk off Jul 20, 2011