Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Swan Slab

5.6 Chimney Above Grant's T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Aid Route T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bay Tree Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bobcat Crack T,TR 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Claude's Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Funge on Munge T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Goat for it T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Grant's Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hanging Flake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lena's Lieback T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Oak Tree Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Oak Tree Flake T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Penelope's Problem T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Penthouse Cracks T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pin Scar Seams T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Seamilicious TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Swan Slab Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Swan Slab Gully T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Swan Slab Squeeze T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ugly Duckling T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Unknown Arete T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Unnamed Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unnamed Crack (the other one) T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed Face Route TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unnamed Thin Crack TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unnamed flared crack / boulder problem TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
V-Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
West Slabs TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Kevin Worrall & George Meyers - 1974
Page Views: 1,369 total, 16/month
Shared By: Osprey Overhang on Sep 7, 2010
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


6 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Just like the children's story that inspired the name, Ugly Duckling starts out on an ugly face which eventually turns into something beautiful.
Pitch one: Climb a boulder problem start (.10a) on good edges up and onto the mossy slab. Make your way right and up, cleaning the edges off as you go until you reach the first bolt(runnout). Continue cleaning as you climb straight up below an oak tree's branches before reaching another bolt (runnout). At this piont, the rock becomes cleaner as well as steeper. Climb good knobs (.8) until you reach the third bolt (runnout). Follow the thin crack right and up to the belay in the corner alcove.
Pitch two: This is where the climb becomes beautiful. Traverse left out a hand crack (.9) on amazing glacier polish. The best granite at Swan Slab is found in this section. When the traverse ends, climb straight up and pull the crux (.10c) with good gear at your feet. The climb then tops out on an easy wide flake and crack.

Location

This route is located on the mossy face left of Lena's Lieback. On the right side of Swan Slab. For the start, look for a boulder problem start ten feet left of a tree. Its hard to see the first bolt, but from the start, it is up and right about thirty feet.

There is a variation to the right with two bolts. This option is not recommended.

After topping out, walk off to the right.

Protection

Standard rack thin to #4 camalot. Also bring quickdraws and shoulder slings.

Bring a nut tool with you on lead to clean off holds and to clean the beginning of the thin crack after the third bolt.

Photos

King Tut
Citrus Heights
  5.10c R
King Tut   Citrus Heights
  5.10c R
I think the first pitch was my first 10a lead ever in about 1978. What looks like a mossy mess from below actually has incut clean edges (maybe some leaves etc) on the rest of the pitch. 2nd pitch as above is classic.

Climb this one and you will feel like you have done something real. Jan 1, 2017
Osprey Overhang   ...
 
Those who seek quality filth and runnouts will love this one. The nasty moss on pitch one hides a wonderful low angle face with chunky edges. Simply put, the polish on the second pitch traverse belongs in Tuolumne.

To date, the bolts are all good but could be better.

A fall from the 5.8 knobs between the second and third bolts will put you into the tree. Sep 8, 2010