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Cosmic Dance (of the flying manzanitta)
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.5 from 13
votes
Routes in A. Swan Slab
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5.6 Chimney Above Grant's T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Aid Route T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Bay Tree Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Bobby's Lobby T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Bobcat Crack T,TR 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a |
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Claude's Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cosmic Dance (of the flying manzanitta) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Funge on Munge T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Goat for it T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Grant's Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hanging Flake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Into the Wild T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A0 |
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JL: Jesus Loves or Just Lettuce T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Lena's Lieback T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Oak Tree Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Oak Tree Flake T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Patio Cracks - Center T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Patio Cracks - Left 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Patio Cracks - Right T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Penelope's Problem T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Penthouse Cracks T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pin Scar Seams T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Psychopath T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Seamilicious TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Swan Slab Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Swan Slab Gully T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Swan Slab Squeeze T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Ugly Duckling T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Unknown Arete T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Unnamed Face TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Unnamed Thin Crack TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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V-Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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West Slabs TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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When the Going Gets Thin I Pound In A Pin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Yose University T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 5 pitches, Grade II |
| GPS: | 37.74499, -119.5999 |
| FA: | May 2024 Erik Sloan and Friends |
| Page Views: | 191 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Erik Sloan on Oct 3, 2024 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
I posted the topo in the photos and in the comments there is a link to the high res pdf.
This climb has bolts at the one short 10b section that you can pull on which would make the climb 5.9 A0.
A modern, mixed face and trad route that climbs to the fantastic Vegas Ledge with it's many choices of stellar topout pitches - Vegas Ledge can alternatively be reached by walking around and rapping in via one 100' rappel.
Pitch 1 (5.6) 130' / 38m. Face and crack moves lead to fun twin cracks and then a wider crack with a bolt to a nice stance belay.
Pitch 2 (10b or 5.9 A0) 80' / 25m. A big step left leads past two bolts to a steeper crack to a bolted roof. Wild traversing under the roof gains a ledge and easier wide climbing - with small pro - to the belay.
Move the belay thirty feet left by walking on a ledge to a second anchor after both climbers finish this pitch.
Pitch 3 (5.9) 80' / 25m. A wide crack / mantel leads to a short bolted face section to wild flakey moves left and up to a traverse around a bulge. Fun pitch!
Pitch 4 (5.9) 100' / 33m. Cool crack moves lead up to a shallow corner with a bolt to a short face section and easier ground up to the large Vegas Ledge. Vegas Baby Woohooo!
Pitch 5 - You're choice of 5 topout pitches! Left to right: 5.7 maybe best 5.7 splitter in the Valley, 10d so fingery good, 5.9 cool bolts and crack on a wild arete, 5.6 easy corner, or 5.7 around the corner down and left is a bolts and crack option.
Location
Approach: Just left of penthouse cracks at Swan Slab, walk up the Swan Slab descent trail and head to the base of the cliff, about 5-10 minutes. The descent from the top of Swan Slab angles into the gully about 20 feet below the cliff. Links into "Yose University" 3-pitch 5.9 to Columbia Rock.
Descent: Rappel the route at any point with a 60m rope. From the summit ledge walk right and up to the Carnival Ledge proper and then head right along a good climbers trail that leads back around to the base of the route. 10 - 20 minutes. If you continue on to "Yose University 5.9+," walk down the Yosemite Falls Trail.
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