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Routes in Swan Slab

5.6 Chimney Above Grant's T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Aid Route T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bay Tree Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bobcat Crack T,TR 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Claude's Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Funge on Munge T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Goat for it T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Grant's Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hanging Flake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lena's Lieback T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Oak Tree Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Oak Tree Flake T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Penelope's Problem T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Penthouse Cracks T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pin Scar Seams T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Seamilicious TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Swan Slab Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Swan Slab Gully T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Swan Slab Squeeze T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ugly Duckling T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Unknown Arete T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Unnamed Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unnamed Crack (the other one) T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed Face Route TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unnamed Thin Crack TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unnamed flared crack / boulder problem TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
V-Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
West Slabs TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,456 total, 19/month
Shared By: M. Morley on Jul 4, 2007
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

A very short (~30') crack, good for kids and those wishing to practice jamming technique.

To descend, scramble up and left to the tree above Swan Slab Gully (3rd class). A single 60' rap to the ground from here.

Location

On the right side of Swan Slab, about 20' left of the Aid Route (marked by a 4-bolt bolt ladder) and 30' right of Swan Slab Gully.

Protection

A few pieces. Gear anchor.

Photos

RR
RR  
Awesome... Feels harder than the 5.6s in Swan Slab so I'll say a .7 .... pretty solid if you stay in the crack or use the couple face features. kinda have to be creative and if you're not sure, keep using the crack. I know I did an awkward but easy "lieback" move or two down low. Smeared maybe one time low and once up high. Feb 26, 2015
Haven't done this route in ten years, but I remember is was slick in a couple of spots even then. Jan 4, 2014
Aaron Slaven
Fresno, CA
  5.7
Aaron Slaven   Fresno, CA
  5.7
Very slick. Not sure about the 5.6 rating anymore. Nov 21, 2012
Rodger Raubach
  5.7+
Rodger Raubach  
  5.7+
A very fun but all too short pitch; seemed very slippery and insecure due to lots of traffic that's polished the rock. I called it a 5.7, since it's significantly tougher than the Swan Slab Gully just "next door." Oct 1, 2012
Brian Snider
NorCal
  5.7+
Brian Snider   NorCal
  5.7+
This route has become so polished from all the traffic, my partner and I thought it felt more like 5.8. We finished on the upper pitches of Swan Slab Gully and felt the grade to be much truer. Jul 22, 2012
Kevin Heckeler
Upstate New York
 
Kevin Heckeler   Upstate New York
 
I felt like everything was polished and insecure. If it was Tuolumne rock it would have felt bomber. Oct 10, 2011
Patrick Kaufer
Laguna Hills, CA
  5.7
Patrick Kaufer   Laguna Hills, CA
  5.7
Very fun practice. Took some new guys (a dad and a 9 year old kid) up it and they loved it! Highly recommend to take new people up. Set the anchor just above the flake on gear then 3rd/4th class up and left to the tree and rap off. Aug 16, 2011