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Routes in Swan Slab

5.6 Chimney Above Grant's T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Aid Route T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bay Tree Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bobcat Crack T,TR 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Claude's Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Funge on Munge T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Goat for it T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Grant's Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hanging Flake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lena's Lieback T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Oak Tree Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Oak Tree Flake T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Penelope's Problem T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Penthouse Cracks T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pin Scar Seams T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Seamilicious TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Swan Slab Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Swan Slab Gully T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Swan Slab Squeeze T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ugly Duckling T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Unknown Arete T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Unnamed Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unnamed Crack (the other one) T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed Face Route TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unnamed Thin Crack TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unnamed flared crack / boulder problem TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
V-Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
West Slabs TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad
FA: Kim Schmitz, Jim Madsen.
Page Views: 3,690 total, 27/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Sep 30, 2006
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Lieback up the smooth left facing corner on the far right side of Swan Slab, to a ledge with two bolts.
Either rappel 80' or climb two more pitches to the top.
Usually people only climb the first pitch.

Protection

Pro to 2.5".

Photos

Connor Newman
Reno, NV
 
Connor Newman   Reno, NV
 
I'd say the top two pitches are worth doing, link them together with slings as stated above and you won't have any problems. The final flared crack looks dirty but actually climbs nicely. Apr 30, 2017
Robert Coleman
Seattle, Wa
Robert Coleman   Seattle, Wa
the first pitch loves nuts Apr 27, 2016
Rodger Raubach  
  5.9
The last 2 pitches are not very enjoyable, and I recommend the 5.5 exit right, after pitch one. I've done it both ways. Oct 4, 2012
Mark P Thomas
Draper
  5.9
Mark P Thomas   Draper
  5.9
You can link the last 2 pitches as one with a single 60m rope as long as you are careful with rope drag. Selective pro placement, long slings, and flipping the rope over the corners helps. Upper crack is work doing. Not too dirty, and the flare requires some thinking to figure out the moves.

The second pitch does have an interesting large flake that is suspended in space by being pinched between the wall and a projecting flake. Don't place pro in this thing! Mar 5, 2012
rex parker
las vegas n.v
 
rex parker   las vegas n.v
 
the first pitch is amazing, climbed the second pitch odd traverse left, after traversing for about 10 feet you come to a boogyboard size flake that would fall if you farted to loud. rope drag was damn near inevitable. the belay ledge was big. we decided not to climb the third pitch because the crack was chossy and full of moss and lichen. we exited skiers left and hit the drainage gully. Jul 20, 2011
Rodger Raubach  
  5.9
Polished from thousands of feet. Good fingerlocks and liebacks; crack eats stoppers as pro. Nice afternoon climb on a hot day as it's in the shade. Mar 11, 2011
ccmski body
Seattle, WA
  5.9
ccmski body   Seattle, WA
  5.9
Good first 5.9 lead- protects well. Oct 17, 2009
Will S
Joshua Tree
 
Will S   Joshua Tree
 
Polished! Shady. Often crowded by regular parties, but I don't think I've ever seen YMS use it for guiding (as they do for the cluster around Oak Tree Flake etc on most days). Oct 30, 2008