Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,266 total · 23/month
Shared By: Will S on May 2, 2007
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


27 Opinions

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

This short squeeze chimney, located just above and left of Oak Tree Flake, grows slightly more difficult the higher you climb and provides good practice for someone new to the wide. There are helper holds along the outside edge and face with a crux at a slight constriction where your hips may have to come out for a move. You can easily reach the top of the climb to set a TR by scrambling up from the left, this is also the downclimb although you could rap from trees at the top if desired.

Location

The route begins after the initial 15' or so of the dirty/blocky chimney just left of the giant oak tree that marks the start of the Oak Tree Flake route. Climb the initial chimney and look up to the left for the obvious, clean, right facing squeeze. Descend by downclimbing through 4th class terrain to climber's left or rap off the trees.

Protection

Solo or TR. A secure solo, #4 bigbro might work on lead, there are plenty of options for a TR anchor.

Photos

You get to stare right at the Steck-Salathe while digging out the chicken wings and heal-toe jams on this one! Jan 1, 2010
Mark P Thomas
Draper
  5.6
Mark P Thomas   Draper
  5.6
Led this yesterday. A questionable #6 Camelot works 1/4 of the way up the crack if you place it deep. A bomber microcam works in the horizontal seam on the left at about 3/4 of the way up. Although you can climb most of this on the face outside, if you actually stay in the Squeeze fairly deep it is very secure and doesn't seem runout. I don't think it would have felt any worse if I only placed the TCU and no Camelot.

[2016 update] Led it again. A 0.3 BD C4 is bomber in the small crack 3/4 up. Really all you need for the lead. Bring some medium gear for an anchor on top and down climb the backside. Apr 5, 2011
Lana dude
5.7 PG13
Lana dude  
5.7 PG13
Not a good climb for a 5.7 leader. Not much protection. No rap anchors on top of pillar. scrambled down a tree to get off. Jan 6, 2014
John Clark
San Francisco, CA
  5.7
John Clark   San Francisco, CA
  5.7
really good intro to OW and squeeze. Not sure how you'd go about protecting it easily though. Dec 10, 2018