Type: TR, 50 ft
FA: N/A
Page Views: 3,140 total · 30/month
Shared By: Brian Snider on Aug 9, 2010
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

Great place to learn slab and friction climbing. Routes from 5.6-5.8. Could be longer so do laps and find a harder line each time.

Location

Obvious slab left of oak tree flake and swan slab chimney. To set an anchor hike up left side of climb then move right along ramp to a medium sized pine tree. This climb can be seen from the road and is popular with Yosemite guides and first timers and may be crowded.

Protection

Top rope only. Bring long slings to anchor off tree above slab.

Photos

Rodger Raubach  
  5.7
There are many different starts and lines to follow; most are above 5.6 in difficulty now that many of the holds have peeled off over the years. The center line is fairly typical and is realistically more like 5.8 than 5.6. The right edge, nearest Bobcat Crack, is close to the 5.6 level if the best combination of holds is found. A worthwhile slab for practice. Sep 30, 2011
Aaron Slaven
Fresno, CA
Aaron Slaven   Fresno, CA
The polish on this slab is getting ridiculous. Not really a beginners top rope. Nov 21, 2012
TacoDelRio
All up in yo bidniss.
  5.7
TacoDelRio   All up in yo bidniss.
  5.7
Very slippery indeed. Good place for a TR solo to do laps. More fun that way.

On the left side of the slabs before the mossy part, there are some much steeper sections that are much harder, with terrible feet. Very slippery start with a bouldering type move next and a topout onto slab.

5.6 - 5.7ish moves. The bottom seems the most slippery, and is usually the crux with a bulge (bulgey? bulgy? bolki.) start. Super easy in the middle, with a bulge at the top on either side of the slab.

Dress like a clown and TR solo it to make the millions of tourists who walk by think you're on drugs. Dec 13, 2012
Eve8008
Santa Cruz, California
  5.6
Eve8008   Santa Cruz, California
  5.6
This slab was easy to climb. Mostly smearing and trusting your feet.
We have been climbing for about 6 months now and this was a nice and easy warm up. Do not get discouraged if you can't figure it out at first, keep trying, it's fun.
To set up the top rope, you walk around to the left up and put your rope around a tree. Apr 15, 2013
The tree at the top of the slab is dead and should not be used as an anchor. There are some good boulders that you can use for an anchor, but they're at the other end near the walk on/off some forty feet away. Dec 1, 2013
Behind the tree at the base of a short corner there is a very solid pocket that took a #1, 0.75 and 0.4 cams for a top rope anchor. I am not talking about the detached looking rock next to the tree, but it is just beyond that. It is hard to see until you get your face down close to it.

I would consider walking up a slab of this angle with no rope in another area, but the polish makes it challenging. Oct 16, 2014
Liz Lampson
Sunnyvale, CA
Liz Lampson   Sunnyvale, CA
There's no reason for a beginner not to try this route. My partner and I invited two rather new climbers (looking for "bolted sport climbing") to join us, and despite never having done any slab climbing both of them got up the middle of the slab with minimal falling. Nobody in a party has to climb to the top to retrieve the rope and anchor, so go ahead and try it!

Note that the tree visible from the base is small and pretty dead, so you will have to know how to build an anchor off something else. My partner built our anchor with several medium sized cams, and we used most of a 35m rope to extend it over the edge enough. Another party there just before we arrived was using 100' of static line to make their anchor. Sep 5, 2018