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Routes in Swan Slab

5.6 Chimney Above Grant's T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Aid Route T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bay Tree Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bobcat Crack T,TR 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Claude's Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Funge on Munge T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Goat for it T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Grant's Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hanging Flake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lena's Lieback T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Oak Tree Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Oak Tree Flake T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Penelope's Problem T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Penthouse Cracks T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pin Scar Seams T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Seamilicious TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Swan Slab Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Swan Slab Gully T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Swan Slab Squeeze T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ugly Duckling T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Unknown Arete T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Unnamed Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unnamed Crack (the other one) T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed Face Route TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unnamed Thin Crack TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unnamed flared crack / boulder problem TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
V-Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
West Slabs TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: TR, 50 ft
FA: N/A
Page Views: 2,396 total, 27/month
Shared By: Brian Snider on Aug 9, 2010
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Great place to learn slab and friction climbing. Routes from 5.6-5.8. Could be longer so do laps and find a harder line each time.

Location

Obvious slab left of oak tree flake and swan slab chimney. To set an anchor hike up left side of climb then move right along ramp to a medium sized pine tree. This climb can be seen from the road and is popular with Yosemite guides and first timers and may be crowded.

Protection

Top rope only. Bring long slings to anchor off tree above slab.

Photos

Behind the tree at the base of a short corner there is a very solid pocket that took a #1, 0.75 and 0.4 cams for a top rope anchor. I am not talking about the detached looking rock next to the tree, but it is just beyond that. It is hard to see until you get your face down close to it.

I would consider walking up a slab of this angle with no rope in another area, but the polish makes it challenging. Oct 16, 2014
The tree at the top of the slab is dead and should not be used as an anchor. There are some good boulders that you can use for an anchor, but they're at the other end near the walk on/off some forty feet away. Dec 1, 2013
Eve8008
Santa Cruz, California
  5.6
Eve8008   Santa Cruz, California
  5.6
This slab was easy to climb. Mostly smearing and trusting your feet.
We have been climbing for about 6 months now and this was a nice and easy warm up. Do not get discouraged if you can't figure it out at first, keep trying, it's fun.
To set up the top rope, you walk around to the left up and put your rope around a tree. Apr 15, 2013
TacoDelRio
All up in yo bidniss.
  5.7
TacoDelRio   All up in yo bidniss.
  5.7
Very slippery indeed. Good place for a TR solo to do laps. More fun that way.

On the left side of the slabs before the mossy part, there are some much steeper sections that are much harder, with terrible feet. Very slippery start with a bouldering type move next and a topout onto slab.

5.6 - 5.7ish moves. The bottom seems the most slippery, and is usually the crux with a bulge (bulgey? bulgy? bolki.) start. Super easy in the middle, with a bulge at the top on either side of the slab.

Dress like a clown and TR solo it to make the millions of tourists who walk by think you're on drugs. Dec 13, 2012
Aaron Slaven
Fresno, CA
Aaron Slaven   Fresno, CA
The polish on this slab is getting ridiculous. Not really a beginners top rope. Nov 21, 2012
Rodger Raubach  
  5.7
There are many different starts and lines to follow; most are above 5.6 in difficulty now that many of the holds have peeled off over the years. The center line is fairly typical and is realistically more like 5.8 than 5.6. The right edge, nearest Bobcat Crack, is close to the 5.6 level if the best combination of holds is found. A worthwhile slab for practice. Sep 30, 2011