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Routes in Swan Slab

5.6 Chimney Above Grant's T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Aid Route T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bay Tree Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bobcat Crack T,TR 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Claude's Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Funge on Munge T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Goat for it T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Grant's Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hanging Flake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lena's Lieback T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Oak Tree Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Oak Tree Flake T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Penelope's Problem T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Penthouse Cracks T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pin Scar Seams T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Seamilicious TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Swan Slab Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Swan Slab Gully T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Swan Slab Squeeze T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ugly Duckling T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Unknown Arete T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Unnamed Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unnamed Crack (the other one) T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed Face Route TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unnamed Thin Crack TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unnamed flared crack / boulder problem TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
V-Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
West Slabs TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,546 total · 34/month
Shared By: M. Morley on Jul 23, 2007
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15 Details

Description

Begin at a large Black Oak with branches touching the cliff. Lieback wide crack to easier ground. The bolt anchor noted in the Supertopo guidebook is no more, so bring some smaller gear for an anchor, or continue up to the belay/rap tree for Grant's Crack.

Location

Left and around the corner from Grant's Crack.

Protection

One or two large cams, plus a few extra pieces.

Photos

-Ty-
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.5
-Ty-   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.5
Watch your head on the trees. Also, I found it was a difficult location to build an anchor. Aug 1, 2007
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
Correction to the Supertopo: the bolt anchor indicated for Oak Tree Flake and Grant's Crack on Swan Slab (page 98) is gone. Instead, go ~20' higher to a small tree with webbing/rap rings. Sep 9, 2007
We went up to the tree when we discovered the bolts missing. To TR this for our group we had to belay beneath Grants crack. The slings on the tree were good, but there was a rap ring that had nearly been worn through. Luckily some kind soul left a quick-link we could use. Oct 19, 2008
Floyd Hayes
  5.7
Floyd Hayes  
  5.7
The flake is real easy but the first move or two from the ground up the crack directly below the right side of the flake are a bit tough for 5.6. It's easier to climb to the left, then traverse right under the flake. No need to build an anchor--simply sling the tree limbs at the top of the flake. Not good for the tree, though. Aug 2, 2010
Try building an anchor from the stacked blocks at the bottom of the Bay Tree Crack. Sep 5, 2010
Adam Voss
Bend, OR
Adam Voss   Bend, OR
Nice moves up the flake. If you don't have a #4 it's pretty runout to the branches. Should have read MP first about the anchor. I spent a while looking for the bolts. Climbing up to Grant's Crack anchor added a few more interesting moves. Nov 21, 2010
Tyler Williams
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.5
Tyler Williams   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.5
decent TR for introducing first timers to climbing Nov 22, 2010
Worster than you
Lafayette, CA
5.6
Worster than you   Lafayette, CA
5.6
Yep, like you said, bolts are gone. I didn't go up to the next tree, just built a quick anchor with no. 1 and no. 2 placements at inside corner left of old bolts. Came here right after Jamcrack, and the bottom moves are easier than that. Mar 24, 2013
R R
R R  
People were TR Grant's crack, so I didn't bother heading up to the tree. I was able to put in two #1 C4s and one #3 after digging out a crack near the old bolts (I believe left of the crack mentioned by the previous poster). I would recommended belaying from the blocks as mentioned by another poster and then continuing up Bay Tree Crack! Walk off to penthouse cracks and rappel, or in our case rappel off the tree :/ (people were TR penthouse cracks and we didn't feel comfortable with the final descent. Jan 18, 2015
Mark P Thomas
Draper
  5.5 PG13
Mark P Thomas   Draper
  5.5 PG13
Led it twice over two days and ended up placing the exact same gear in the exact same spots. Basically, place a green #0.75 BD C4 at the start, then a #4 BD C4 halfway up the lieback flake, then finish with a red #1 BD C4 just past the tree branch before the topout. Feb 22, 2016
Laralyn Mowers
Astoria, NY
 
Laralyn Mowers   Astoria, NY
 
The note in the description is correct. There are no longer bolted anchors. Save yourself the hassle of looking for a good anchor past the second tree, and just build a rappel station there. (You can do this all in one pitch.) Jul 12, 2017

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