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Routes in The Central Wall
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Abrakadabra T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Angel's Freeway T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Angel's Highway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2 |
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Antline T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Bicycle Route, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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British Are Coming, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 |
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Burning Brush S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Candidus/Frenchman's Fury T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c A3+ |
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Carpenters Rant T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Civic doobie T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Colonial Ambush T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Exasperation T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Forest of Fangorn T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3 |
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Fortitude, Pitch 1 T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Free beard T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Intimidation T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Magic Hat #9 S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Passing Thoughts T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Pearly Gates T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A4- |
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Reality Check T A4 |
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Remission T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Repentance T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Should have been here Yesterray T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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White Eye, pitch 1 T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
| Type: | Trad, Aid, 130 ft (39 m), Grade III |
| GPS: | 44.064, -71.1663 |
| FA: | Todd Swain (rope solo). |
| Page Views: | 342 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Ryan DeLena on Aug 20, 2022 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
Description
This got grouped in as a second pitch to Reality Check in the new guidebook, but it was originally a second pitch variation to Angel's Highway pitch 2 done by Todd Swain. The old bolts have now been replaced and the pitch is reasonably safe to lead again. While the original rating may have been A4+, Ben and I agreed that it is A3+ by modern standards, so I met in the middle on grades.
Approach: Climb Angel's Highway P1, this is mostly bolts and rivets with one short section of nailing. 2 options exist here. The original way to climb the pitch is to start from this belay and climb the first half of Angel's pitch 2. A new bolted anchor for a sport line on the left arete now provides a closer spot to belay at a 2 bolt anchor. This would take a lot of rope out of the system in the event of a fall. In any case, climb a 5.8 slab to a hidden pin and a bolt, then aid up a corner on fixed pins. Pull over at a fixed rurp to the bolted belay. We did this in one long pitch from the ground, but it is more easily broken into 2. Alternate Start: Climb Reality Check A4 for a more consistent and very serious linkup.
Pearly Gates: Aid up a short bolt ladder and a rivet, then aid a flared corner to a spot where you can reach left to 2 bolts onto the steep, light colored wall. Aid the thin seem (A4) on gnarly heads (some fixed) to a new bolt. A few dead heads were left on the pitch which can be hooked with beaks. From the last bolt, aid the final overhanging seem on heads and beaks to a spot where you can get a nut at the lip. Reach a horizontal seem above the roof that takes finger sized cams, and traverse back right, following flared pods beneath the final roof. Aid to the right on hand sized cams, reaching an awkward placement and tricky mantel onto a dirt ledge. Pull onto the ledge to a 2 bolt belay.
From here either rappel to the ground in 2 raps or continue to the top of Angel's Highway on a 5.8 corner pitch.
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