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Routes in The Central Wall

Abrakadabra T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Angel's Freeway T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Antline T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bicycle Route, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
British Are Coming, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3
Candidus/Frenchman's Fury T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c A3+
Colonial Ambush T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Forest of Fangorn T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3
Fortitude, Pitch 1 T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Intimidation T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Passing Thoughts T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
White Eye, pitch 1 T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: FA Joe Cote FFA Neil Cannon and Hugh Herr
Page Views: 531 total, 5/month
Shared By: bayard russell jr on Aug 15, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

A couple of years back a pillar fell down at the base of the route revealing a beautiful 5.11d stemming corner. This joins the left-traversing arch of Fortitude making for a great, sustained pitch. It was a great early spring surprise.

Location

Just to the right of the Cave, and immediately right of White Eye. Obvious, very white, left facing corner.

Protection

Two 1/4" bolts were replaced. Without the pillar the route is safer (its not there to swing into). The nuts protecting the crux section can be levered out if not well set, so be careful, but when they're in they're in - I've fallen all over them. We replaced a single 1/4"-er on the ledge where the hard climbing ends, and belayed off of that, it can be backed up in a crack. Rappel off the bolt or continue to the Bonfire Ledge through a forest of lichen. The rest of the pitches are dirty, but look great.

Photos

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john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
Yo bayard- does this also lead eventually to the upper 11+ pitch on White Eye ? Apr 6, 2010