Type: Trad, 115 ft (35 m)
GPS: 44.064, -71.1663
FA: Ray Rice and Duncan Sept 30 2025
Page Views: 168 total · 23/month
Shared By: Ray rice on Feb 26, 2026
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Another bonfire Bonanza!  A link up with all the variables...

Climb a four or five bolt technical thin slab (extend the last one long to help with drag) into the guts of Forest of fangorns chimney system. Now,  just avoid all that grovely, hairy, tree bearded allure of Middle Earth and bang a hard left, stepping over the void and clipping the crux bolt to pull into steep new terrain and the head wall above. At the top of the blunt arete that forms the left side of the fangorn pendulum chimney, clip a high bolt, step down and left and work some foot magic trickery with helpful underclings to gain the finger to hands to fists cathedral direct crack system. Take this crack to its top, dump the#3 and slab climb up to the first bolt of Crabnebula to then step out right to the anchor at the base of the "V- buttress".

Location Suggest change

As far left as you can go on the bonfire ledge is a two bolt belay. Free beard is directly above this.

Protection Suggest change

Single rack up to a #3

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