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Routes in The Central Wall

Abrakadabra T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Angel's Freeway T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Antline T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bicycle Route, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
British Are Coming, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3
Candidus/Frenchman's Fury T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c A3+
Colonial Ambush T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Forest of Fangorn T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3
Fortitude, Pitch 1 T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Intimidation T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Passing Thoughts T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
White Eye, pitch 1 T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Trad, 100 ft, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 97 total · 16/month
Shared By: Eli on Sep 18, 2017
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Neglected by most, Passing Thoughts climbs a stunning feature 200' off the deck. Start this pitch on the P3 belay ledge for Repentance. Look up and right to the beautiful double hanging corner system split by a thin crack that takes bomber pro. Scamper across the gully and up the easy slab (5.6R) to gain the base of the first corner and plug some gear. Step up under the first roof and pull through a hard move to get established in the next corner. Continue up the corner and out the next roof to a pumpy variable sized crack. Just keep jamming, pop over the lip and take a breather. Then finish up an easy, but dirty slab to a fat ledge above Angel's Freeway. Belay at a big tree.

The best way out from here is to climb up a very dirty corner right of the belay, and then continue way left to the last belay of Repentance, or keep leading up the class 3 pine needle gully and belay in the woods at the top of the cliff.
Descend to the right on the climbers trail.


Climb Abracadabra (5.11b), from the two bolt anchor go far right on the ledge and look for a dirty hand crack that leads into the big chimney second pitch of Repentance (5.9/5.8R). The pro in the chimney is sparse, but the climbing is very secure.


Double rack to #2, blue alien might be useful. We used from black totems to #2 C4s. Nuts could protect the crux better than cams depending on what you bring.
Many slings or alpine draws.
A #3 C4 can make the P3 pin belay more bomber.



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