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Routes in The Central Wall

Abrakadabra T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Angel's Freeway T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Antline T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bicycle Route, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
British Are Coming, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3
Candidus/Frenchman's Fury T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c A3+
Colonial Ambush T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Forest of Fangorn T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3
Fortitude, Pitch 1 T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Intimidation T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Passing Thoughts T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
White Eye, pitch 1 T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Sam Streibert, Dennis Merritt, Steve Arsenault & Bruce Beck, June 1971
Page Views: 4,882 total, 38/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Apr 16, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

This route is Killer!!! Intimidation is a full-length route up an intimidating wall and none of the pitches will let you down. This is one of the best multi-pitch 5.10s in NH.

The moderate climbing between the cruxes can be a bit run out, and though the hard parts can be scary, they are protected well enough (maybe PG13). The only real R rated climbing is the second pitch traverse and it goes at 5.8.

Pitch one: (5.10b) Start up the moderate ramp system heading toward the corner/crack. Sling two nuts together (I use #10 stoppers) and use them to reach a good high placement before making the moves in to the crack. Without this trick, the pitch is R rated for sure.
Continue up the corner and gain a well deserved rest and a bolt. The crux in my opinion is making a move left after the bolt using crimps to make a big reach and throwing a heelhook up to mantel. From here, climb moderately to the 2 bolt anchor.

Pitch 2: (5.8R) Climb up and clip a pin before making a hair-raising traverse left away from your gear. The climbing is slabby and gets harder as you move left until you get a thank god hold. You can then get a marginal placement to protect your second by climbing back above the traverse and placing a cam in a pocket...This gear is not great so don't bring a second that is not solid on 5.8 friction.

Pitch 3: (5.9+) Climb up above and to the right from the tree ledge gaining a thin crack with some tricky moves involving some face climbing. After you reach a good ledge, continue up a corner to a kick ass right leaning crack that leads to a small stance where you can belay.

Pitch 4:(5.9+) Continue up the right-leaning crack (harder than it looks) and up over a steep section and on to easier climbing. Follow the path of least resistance up and left until you are on a slab with a couple of dikes in it. Some paths up this part are more well protected than others, so choose wisely your route. Belay from the trees or step right and belay from a 2 bolt anchor.

Walk off to the right (north).

Location

To the left of the chimney of Repentance to the right of the cave look for a corner with a cool hand crack in it about 35-40 feet up. Start up the ramp below.

Protection

Standard Cathedral rack, 2 nuts linked together will help protect the first pitch (a number #10 stopper works well for this).

The first and second pitches can be a little heady in parts.
Eugene Kwan 1
Cambridge, Massachusetts
Eugene Kwan 1   Cambridge, Massachusetts
Awesome route! I found it much easier to tape a nut to a stick and get it in that way. Also, it seems to make more sense to climb up to the sloping ledge in the middle of P3 as the belay for the second pitch. It protects the follower nicely and is nicer for the hard climbing higher. I agree with Chris. The first pitch is hard, but the stuff above is at least as tricky. The traverse, however, didn't seem too bad. Snake Dike, for example, seemed much harder. The last slanting crack was desperate for me. I can't put my finger on what was hard exactly but my core got a workout. I didn't see any peregrines today but the last pitch is quite filthy. It sort of protects with little cams and long slings, but the climbing is easy. Just don't slip on the lichen! May 31, 2016
Rob Albert
  5.10b PG13
Rob Albert  
  5.10b PG13
Last pitch is dirty again - not lichen, actual dirt/ pine needles/ leaves. Does not really take away from the amazing-ness of the rest of the pitches. Every single pitch is memorable and good. Pitch 1 nut trick works fine, and I thought the moves above it were maybe a little harder. We ran pitch 2 together with pitch 3 and it was fine with double ropes, just bring a few finger size pieces and you'll be fine. Pitch 3 handcrack is simply awesome. Pitch 4 crack and face were incredible. When I last did the route in 2007, there was a lot of proper lichen on the traverse - it is almost all gone now, and it is not hard. I doubt there is any way to keep that last bit clean, but the climbing is super easy. Sep 25, 2015
I just cleaned the last pitch, and uncovered many more nut, and cam placements, which were hidden by lichen.
You can place a piece of pro. every 10 feet, until the last 20 feet, where it is probably only 5.0. Aug 4, 2015
Lizzy Scully
Lyons, Colorado
Lizzy Scully   Lyons, Colorado
There is a peregrine falcon with four eggs one-third the way up the last pitch. We bailed because we would have had to run the rope directly over her nest. May 4, 2015
Greg DeMatteo
W. Lebanon, NH
  5.10 PG13
Greg DeMatteo   W. Lebanon, NH
  5.10 PG13
That makes so much more sense. That bolt had me incredibly confused trying to figure out how and why the FA party would have put it there. We did this in 90 degree sun and it was damn hard. I was giving props to the FFA party the entire way up. It might have been the heat/sun but I thought it was pretty solid 5.10 with fairly devious cruxes if you've never done the route before.

The last pitch is indeed fairly dirty but mostly on the easy slab climbing above the crack. Jul 23, 2014
I went up and surveyed the area of rockfall, and felt that a bolt was perhaps needed for pro.

I was concerned that this route would get far less traffic, and it really needs to get done more often, since the upper pitches are pretty dirty.

After consulting with most of the locals, which approved, I placed a bolt, just above where the old pro. was before the rockfall. I also removed the pin, at the 5.8 traverse, which I placed 45 years ago, since it was crap. I placed it in another spot, close by, and it's pretty bomber.

I rope-soloed the 3rd pitch and felt the move by the bolt was about the same difficulty. Aug 1, 2013
The third pitch of this climb appears to have had some recent rockfall, there is a big orange scar on the traverse back right before gaining the crack and evidence of rockfall at the base of the climb.
Although our party cleared off the biggest pieces of loose rock last weekend, there might still be quite some crumbly rock around, so be aware (falling rock will hit the trail below). Special care should be taken if linking pitches two and three as the rope(s) will run right below along the slab below and can potentially be hit by falling rock. Still a great climb and probably no change in grade. Jul 23, 2013
chinos
  5.10b
chinos  
  5.10b
agreed strand. the lichen fest at the top is excellent!! Jun 25, 2013
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
Does no one top out anymore ??? the finish is a bit exciting and cool. Great climb.. best 5.10 on the cliff ??? i'd say so Jun 17, 2013
chuckdrew
Cape Elizabeth, Maine
chuckdrew   Cape Elizabeth, Maine
Great route but severely overgrown with lichen as of June 2013. We did the first 3 pitches yesterday and opted not to do the forth pitch due to all the lichen. I am tempted to go clean the route on rappel.

I agree, the R rating is a bit harsh for the second pitch. I am not looking forward to that fall but I doubt it would do you much harm (assuming the pin holds).

Anyway - great route - get out and do it! Jun 17, 2013
Just want to stress what my son said earlier----there is a bomber horizontal seam, just left of the dike, below the pine tree, on the last pitch. Bring a nut tool to clean it out. It takes bomber small nuts, which eliminate the run-out on the lichen covered rock.
Wish I had discovered this on the 1st ascent. Apr 29, 2013
@ drover, If you place the threaded nut at the very bottom of the constriction you will be able to use the groove as a layback which for me was the key to passing the crux. Feb 6, 2013
cjdrover
Watertown, MA
 
cjdrover   Watertown, MA
 
My .02:
(1) 5.10a/b "Nut trick" works pretty well but kinda occupies some of the handholds. Found the move at the bolt to be the crux.
(2) 5.8 (5.5R) 100% agree with E Thatcher above. Trickiest move had the pin right above you, 5.4 or 5.5 as you go across. You can protect the follower by climbing up P3 to get great gear in the flake, keeps the traverse a top rope the whole way.
(3) 5.10a/b I thought this was just as hard as P1 and more sustained, excellent pitch.
(4) 5.9 (5.5R) Getting a bit dirty, even in the 5.9 section.

Killer route overall! May 20, 2012
Annaconda
Seattle, WA
Annaconda   Seattle, WA
Those downclimbing moves without long-ish legs are more "steps of faith", and if you are seconding and have to unclip the pin before you do them ... definitely spicy.
Sep 3, 2010
I did this route yesterday, with my father, (steve arsenault)who did the 1st ascent.
I also don't think this deserves an "R" rating. The traverse left on the second pitch gets easier as you go. Also, on the last pitch, there is a bomber wired nut placement just below the pine tree, at the base of the dike,(which is easy). You can place multiple pieces in a horizontal seam, (bring a nut tool to clean the lichen). One of my favorite routes anywhere Aug 22, 2010
E thatcher
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
E thatcher   Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
I Think much of the difficulty of the traverse depends on how high you Are. Lee, you mentioned that the traverse gets harder and harder as you go. We clipped the pin and down climbed a few moves, the down climb and one move left were a little tricky, but then it was virtually a walk across. Kind of the opposite progression of hardness from how it sounds you did it. Aug 9, 2010
I dont think that this deserves and "r" rating, with a little engineering you can protect it VERY well. As far as the 5.8 pitch
John is right, if one would fall they would be chewed. Sep 10, 2009
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
I don't know about an R !? If you fall off the traverse, good luck up higher.


john Jun 12, 2008
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
I WANT TO CLIMB IT!!! Apr 16, 2007