Avg: 3.6 from 42 votes
Routes in The Central Wall
|Abrakadabra T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Angel's Freeway T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R|
|Antline T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Bicycle Route, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|British Are Coming, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3|
|Candidus/Frenchman's Fury T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c A3+|
|Colonial Ambush T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Forest of Fangorn T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3|
|Fortitude, Pitch 1 T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13|
|Intimidation T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R|
|Passing Thoughts T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|White Eye, pitch 1 T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Type:||Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches|
|FA:||Sam Streibert, Dennis Merritt, Steve Arsenault & Bruce Beck, June 1971|
|Page Views:||4,882 total, 38/month|
|Shared By:||lee hansche on Apr 16, 2007|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall|
DescriptionThis route is Killer!!! Intimidation is a full-length route up an intimidating wall and none of the pitches will let you down. This is one of the best multi-pitch 5.10s in NH.
The moderate climbing between the cruxes can be a bit run out, and though the hard parts can be scary, they are protected well enough (maybe PG13). The only real R rated climbing is the second pitch traverse and it goes at 5.8.
Pitch one: (5.10b) Start up the moderate ramp system heading toward the corner/crack. Sling two nuts together (I use #10 stoppers) and use them to reach a good high placement before making the moves in to the crack. Without this trick, the pitch is R rated for sure.
Continue up the corner and gain a well deserved rest and a bolt. The crux in my opinion is making a move left after the bolt using crimps to make a big reach and throwing a heelhook up to mantel. From here, climb moderately to the 2 bolt anchor.
Pitch 2: (5.8R) Climb up and clip a pin before making a hair-raising traverse left away from your gear. The climbing is slabby and gets harder as you move left until you get a thank god hold. You can then get a marginal placement to protect your second by climbing back above the traverse and placing a cam in a pocket...This gear is not great so don't bring a second that is not solid on 5.8 friction.
Pitch 3: (5.9+) Climb up above and to the right from the tree ledge gaining a thin crack with some tricky moves involving some face climbing. After you reach a good ledge, continue up a corner to a kick ass right leaning crack that leads to a small stance where you can belay.
Pitch 4:(5.9+) Continue up the right-leaning crack (harder than it looks) and up over a steep section and on to easier climbing. Follow the path of least resistance up and left until you are on a slab with a couple of dikes in it. Some paths up this part are more well protected than others, so choose wisely your route. Belay from the trees or step right and belay from a 2 bolt anchor.
Walk off to the right (north).