Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, Aid, 400 ft, 6 pitches, Grade IV|
|FA:||Dave Linden/Joe Cote Summer, 1976|
|Page Views:||1,003 total · 9/month|
|Shared By:||nhclimber on Sep 11, 2009|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall|
P1-just left of the cave there is a right slanting crack that unfortunitly has a couple bolts next to it. Clean gear/nailing up this short overhanging wall gets you to a stance at another inside corner, follow this up for 15' till you get to a horizontal seam. Nail this (blades, thin LA, rurp's) to the vertical crack coming out of ballhog. Follow this to the anchor. The anchor could still use some work, we added a bolt to the fixed bong and nut. A3 P2-Nail up and left out the overhanging wallup a slightly rotten flake. Follow the flake till it ends then free climb/hook/nail over to the ledge at the end of the pendulum undercling pitch. A3 P3-Climb down and right along the ledge till it ends, attempt to protect, then hook and nail up a 15'wall to a ledge and a fixed bong rappel point, lower into the cathedral direct chimney till you gain a crack system on the right hand wall. Free climb up this and over to Bonfire. A3 5.6 (scary) P4-Off the extreme left side of the bonfire ledge there is a second chimney to the left of cathedral direct. Think vertical kitty litter buttcrack. Chimney and aid (there is a thin rotten crack on the left hand side) up this for 50' till you get to a small ledge with an OLD bolt. Nail a right slanting crack to the end and belay on old bolts. A3 5.6 (scary) P5-Use bolts (3?) to gain a horizontal crack, nail/clean aid left around a corner into a vertical groove (water course, ie rotten). Follow the groove till you can break left again and gain a ledge, belay in vertical crack on the ledge. A3 P6-follow the vertical crack up the slabs to the top.
Left hand side of the cave there is a pretty right slanting crack with a few bolts, this is the start. I think it's a sport climb, Lucifer...