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Routes in The Central Wall

Abrakadabra T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Angel's Freeway T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Antline T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bicycle Route, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
British Are Coming, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3
Candidus/Frenchman's Fury T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c A3+
Colonial Ambush T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Forest of Fangorn T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3
Fortitude, Pitch 1 T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Intimidation T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Passing Thoughts T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
White Eye, pitch 1 T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Trad, Aid, 400 ft, 6 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Dave Linden/Joe Cote Summer, 1976
Page Views: 938 total, 9/month
Shared By: nhclimber on Sep 11, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

P1-just left of the cave there is a right slanting crack that unfortunitly has a couple bolts next to it. Clean gear/nailing up this short overhanging wall gets you to a stance at another inside corner, follow this up for 15' till you get to a horizontal seam. Nail this (blades, thin LA, rurp's) to the vertical crack coming out of ballhog. Follow this to the anchor. The anchor could still use some work, we added a bolt to the fixed bong and nut. A3 P2-Nail up and left out the overhanging wallup a slightly rotten flake. Follow the flake till it ends then free climb/hook/nail over to the ledge at the end of the pendulum undercling pitch. A3 P3-Climb down and right along the ledge till it ends, attempt to protect, then hook and nail up a 15'wall to a ledge and a fixed bong rappel point, lower into the cathedral direct chimney till you gain a crack system on the right hand wall. Free climb up this and over to Bonfire. A3 5.6 (scary) P4-Off the extreme left side of the bonfire ledge there is a second chimney to the left of cathedral direct. Think vertical kitty litter buttcrack. Chimney and aid (there is a thin rotten crack on the left hand side) up this for 50' till you get to a small ledge with an OLD bolt. Nail a right slanting crack to the end and belay on old bolts. A3 5.6 (scary) P5-Use bolts (3?) to gain a horizontal crack, nail/clean aid left around a corner into a vertical groove (water course, ie rotten). Follow the groove till you can break left again and gain a ledge, belay in vertical crack on the ledge. A3 P6-follow the vertical crack up the slabs to the top.

Location

Left hand side of the cave there is a pretty right slanting crack with a few bolts, this is the start. I think it's a sport climb, Lucifer...

Protection

Full clean aid rack, full nailing rack, feature hooks, drill. You want a nailing route, here you go.

Photos

nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
 
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
 
As promised, cleaned up and complete. Great route, really good intro into harder nailing. Sep 16, 2009
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
 
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
 
Alright, maybe I do need a guidebook. I'll finish this post today and correct all oopsies. I always mess up my entish to common translations. Sep 14, 2009
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
That's Fangorn, translated as Treebeard in the Common Speech... Sep 13, 2009
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
 
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
 
Sorry, I know. I go at it sans guidebook and just draw the route from memory. I like to write what I remember of a route, the good, the bad the ugly, and then back check against the guide book. I don't just want to write what's in the guidebook. Anybody can get one of those. Forest's was a hard route for my partner and I, I wanted to translate that into the post. But thanks, I will fix the FA. Sep 12, 2009
ahhhhh........ok, makes sense.
I will keep it hush hush and wait for the descriptions. Sep 11, 2009