Type: Trad
FA: B Proudman and G Morris aug 1968 FFA B Anderson G Sogard Sept 1971
Page Views: 2,170 total · 15/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Aug 27, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

Antline is a route that deserves more traffic for sure. Great varied climbing on nice rock. The ledges are also super nice, so just get on it already.

This is an easy route to describe but a very hard one to rate. The popular rating is 5.10a though none of the climbing seems harder than 5.9. This would be all fine and good but the route starts at the top of the first pitch of Intimidation which is stout 5.10b. So to me, you don't want to get on this one unless you can climb hard Cathedral 5.10b. But this is the end of my ramble on the grade here comes the description of this awesome climb...

Pitch 1: (5.10b) Climb the first pitch of Intimidation to a 2 bolt anchor.

Pitch 2: (5.9) Step right from the anchor to a super exposed position on the left end of the big roof above Intimidation's 1st pitch. Follow cracks and face moves with good pro to a ledge. Climb way in to a really cool squeeze chimney (I faced left and it was super awkward and hard. My second faced right and it was much easier for him>) Climb the chimney to an exit and up a crack to the tree ledge.

Pitch 3: (5.9) Climb nice cracks on the right side of the ledge past a birch tree to a nice anchor at a small and exposed ledge on the right.

Pitch 4: (5.7) Head left to hook up with the last pitch of Intimidation. Follow the line of least resistance to the final dike up the slab. Look for pro on the slab. It looks run out but it takes some good small gear.

Location

Start as for Intimidation but at the first belay step right and head up the cracked groove.

Protection

Standard rack to #3 camalot

Photos