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Routes in The Central Wall

Abrakadabra T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Angel's Freeway T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Antline T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bicycle Route, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
British Are Coming, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3
Candidus/Frenchman's Fury T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c A3+
Colonial Ambush T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Forest of Fangorn T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3
Fortitude, Pitch 1 T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Intimidation T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Passing Thoughts T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
White Eye, pitch 1 T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Trad, 550 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: FA: Ed Webster, Susan Patenaude 9/23/1980
Page Views: 587 total, 11/month
Shared By: John Halupowski on May 21, 2013
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

A sustained climb that criss-crosses over Intimidation.

The following history is excerpt from Webster's Third Edition of Rock Climbs In The White Mountains.

"The climb has one of the most-colorful histories of any route in the area. To insure that the facts are recorded with some degree of accuracy, the story will be told in full. While cleaning the route on rappel in 1976, Ed Webster placed a bolt on the final slab, then was unable to even climb up to it. Everyone got a good chuckle out of this, but the best was yet to come.
Several years later, just for fun, Alain Comeau and several conspirators "borrowed" ten speed bicycle, rappelled down, and hung it off the offensive bolt, no doubt as a warning against any future ethical slippages! Paul Ross even went so far as to sneak Webster's camera along to photograph the event for posterity. But-as fate would have it- John Bragg @ Jay Wilson were climbing INTIMIDATION later that very same day. One can only imagine their incredulity upon noticing a ten speed bicylcle suspended out in the middle of a blank wall, and the subsequent argument over who saw it first! The bicycle was speedily rescued, albeit on a top-rope.
When the conspirators discovered the premature rescue of the bicycle, it was seized from Bragg and Wilson, and returned to its ignominious perch for the second time in the same day! There it remained for about two weeks until Webster finally rescued it-and alas, the poor bicycle was never quite the same again. On September 23, 1980, Ed Webster @ Susan Patenaude made the routes first ascent, but found an easier way around the famous bicycle bolt."



P.1 Climb the first pitch of Intimidation, the left of two right facing dihederals. Layback up the corner to a bolt under a roof, then step left (tres cool) and up to a good belay ledge 90' 5.10b

P.2 Up the corner, to a bolt on face above, then up flake to a belay ledge on the right. 60' 5.11b

P.3 Jam up the 5.9 hand crack to a tree ledge. 70' 5.9

P.4 Climb a short 5.9 crack to a belay ledge on Intimidation 30' 5.9.

P.5 Follow the right-diagonaling 5.9 crack on Intimidation to an overlap. Traverse left, then pull over it (pitons) to the upper face. Belay on left. 5.11b

P.6 Face climb up a groove (long runout), angling right to Intimidation. 5.10bR

P.7 Climb the dike (easy) on Intimidation to the woods.

Location

Start 100' right of the Cathedral Roof area

Protection

Cathedral rack with wires and cams, small up to hands.

Photos

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john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
Actually being there when it happened was even better , but.... A fine climb esp with the direct finish 11-ish and maybe a bit r May 22, 2013
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
Hah! Thanks for the history lesson on North Conway shenanigans... and, of course, the route. :) May 22, 2013