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Early Access
Routes in Main Wall
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A Rememberance of Jeff T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Astro-Geodesy T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Autumn Gold T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Backseat Delilah T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Backseat Nightmare T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Black Glass T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Black Sheep T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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BT Express T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Butthole Surfers T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Carry Water T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Chimichanga T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Chimney Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Chop Wood T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A2 |
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Coal Miner's Daughter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Coal Miner's Daughter Extension T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Confirmation Bias T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Copperhead Row T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Copperhead Row Direct Finish T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Creatures Void Of Form T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Diagonal, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Digital Delight T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Divine Entropy T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Escaping Time T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Flying Frog T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Flying Squirrel T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Georgia Meatshower T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Happy Enchilada T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Heaven and Hell T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Highly Wired T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Hypnotoad T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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I Yam What I Yam T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Into the Country (aka Out in the Country) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mescaline Daydream T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Primitive Paradox T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Psilocin Nightmare T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Punk Wave T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Purgatory T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Rapture of the Steep T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Splendid T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Splendor T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Thorn, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Tourist Trap T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Truth or Consequences T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Wally’s Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2- |
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Wings of Wallenda T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| GPS: | 34.73817, -83.38763 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 487 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Pinche Gringo on Aug 13, 2022 |
| Admins: | Luke Cornejo, Mark O'Neal |
Access Issue: Climbing Permit Needed - Heat advisory in summer
Details
Starting in 2026 they have instituted a heat warning policy that says on "heat advisory" days that you must be out of the gorge by noon. They will tell you this when you obtain your permit. You should assume in the summer months that this policy will be enforced every day and they will enforce it
Climbing access is not allowed during whitewater releases and aesthetic water releases.
For water release schedule and further information please check the park's website, gastateparks.org/TallulahGorge.
Potential for seasonal raptor closures. Typically it's just around certain routes and the whole climbing area isn't closed
Description
Start the same as P2 of Mescaline Daydream but climb out right to a left facing ramp corner. There is a small cam placement in a crack undercling above you before you traverse to the ramp corner. Climb up the ramp corner with good gear joining Backseat Delilah. From there, climb up to the small pine tree above where Backseat Delilah joins Flying Frog. There are two small placements in this section that make it safe. From the pine tree, continue up Flying Frog to the anchor. The crux of the pitch is the upper corner of Flying Frog (5.8+/5.9-).
I'm not sure the history of this or if anyone ever gave it an official name. Anyway, it's a fun moderate pitch in a place not known for moderates which is why I thought it would be a good addition to MP. It's been recently cleaned up and should be good for a season or two. The gear is not as straightforward as the other moderates, but it is still a safe lead.
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