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Routes in Main Wall

A Rememberance of Jeff S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Autumn Gold T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
BT Express T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Backseat Delilah T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Diagonal, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Digital Delight T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flying Frog T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Flying Squirrel T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Highly Wired T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
I Yam What I Yam T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Into the Country (aka Out in the Country) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mescaline Daydream T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Primitive Paradox T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Punk Wave T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rapture of the Steep T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Truth or Consequences T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Wings of Wallenda T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Rob Culbertson, Steve Poulsen, Allan Vandeford - 1966
Page Views: 7,069 total · 52/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Dec 15, 2006
Admins: saxfiend

You & This Route


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Climbing Permit Needed-Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

A great climb on beautiful rock, Primitive Paradox is well protected but strenuous in places. The exposure is some of the nicest in the gorge.

P1 - start up an easy slab into a right-facing corner. Continue up the corner to mount a shallow ledge, then traverse left on the ledge to a bolted belay. 100'

P2 - from the belay, move slightly right, then climb another short right-facing corner (pro is a little hard to find here). Continue up a blocky face to a right-leaning, right-facing corner. Climb this to another ledge; make a mantel finish on slopey holds to reach a bolted anchor. 100'

Location

Starts a short walk down the trail from where it intersects the cliff; about 20' right of BT Express. Rap from the bolted anchor at the top; a 60-meter rope is probably just long enough to get you to the ground.

Protection

Small to medium gear (nuts, cams, tricams). Bolted belays/anchors.
Gable  
Fantastic stemming, especially on the 1st pitch. Dec 10, 2014
JohnWesely
Red River Gorge
 
JohnWesely   Red River Gorge
 
I can't believe I waited five years to get on this. This is one of the best 5.9s I have done anywhere. Jan 28, 2013
Tom Fralich
Fort Collins, CO
 
Tom Fralich   Fort Collins, CO
 
Really an excellent climb. I stopped here on the way from ATL to T-Wall and was really impressed. Beautiful area and both this route and Mescaline Daydream were well-protected and high-quality. Nov 15, 2010
is there a possible third pitch to this route? Dec 11, 2009
saxfiend
Decatur, GA
 
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
 
Great climb! Harder than I remembered, but maybe I was just having a bad day. Leading the final moves on P2 are what I'd call the crux of the climb; I blew it and took a nice long fall. Jan 1, 2009
Jeff Mekolites
ATL GA
 
Jeff Mekolites   ATL GA
 
At the start of the second pitch, there is a large scary flake that is right on the belay ledge. I hadn't noticed it in the past but when I stepped on this time, it shifted. Be careful of this thing. Nov 9, 2008
BirminghamBen
Birmingham, AL
 
BirminghamBen   Birmingham, AL
 
Leader should be mindful of the follower beginning the traverse at the top of P1...throw in a few pieces along the way. Mar 29, 2007