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Routes in Main Wall

A Rememberance of Jeff S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Autumn Gold T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
BT Express T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Backseat Delilah T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Diagonal, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Digital Delight T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flying Frog T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Flying Squirrel T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Highly Wired T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
I Yam What I Yam T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Into the Country (aka Out in the Country) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mescaline Daydream T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Primitive Paradox T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Punk Wave T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rapture of the Steep T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Truth or Consequences T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Wings of Wallenda T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 180 ft
FA: Shannon Stegg
Page Views: 1,408 total, 16/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Nov 14, 2010
Admins: saxfiend

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Climbing Permit Needed-Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

This is essentially a linkup of the first pitch of Primitive Paradox and the crux pitch of Punk Wave via a crack and a bit of face climbing.

After the inital corner, continue straight up aiming for the finger crack up high.

A long, plumb line.

Location

Start same as for Primitive Paradox.

Protection

Lots...long pitch.

Photos

I did, it is the crux! Mar 24, 2013
Stephen Felker
Boulder, CO
 
Stephen Felker   Boulder, CO
 
Okay, I've now done Wally's and Wings of Wallenda roofs. Wally's goes clean and has a ton of rusty fixed gear; approach via Primitve Paradox. Wings of Wallenda requires thin and sustained nailing and is approached via the link up or P2 of Punk Wave; are you prepared to climb out of the aiders and mantle above knife blades on a slopey, dirty ledge nearly 240 meters above the gorge floor? Apr 18, 2011
Stephen Felker
Boulder, CO
 
Stephen Felker   Boulder, CO
 
...agreed, the ~50m mega-pitch up to the roof is a good link up with some unique terrain. "Plumb line" about sums it up. I'd proceed with caution in the center when pulling the smeary crux above the Primitive Paradox ledge- good pro, just a little close, ya know? Nov 15, 2010
Stephen Felker
Boulder, CO
 
Stephen Felker   Boulder, CO
 
Paul, just to clarify, I am pretty sure that the Wings of Wallenda nailing pitch is a seperate aid line, just right of Wally's proper (yes, same roof system). There is a weakness leading to a V at the lip that looks like it would take knifeblades, which I have eyed but never ventured up. However, I am not certain of this. Maybe Shannon could clarify. Nov 15, 2010