Creatures Void Of Form

This was originally climbed as an aid line by the first ascent party.  This description is for the free climb which stays pretty much on the aid line except for one short (~15-20ft) section on P2.  It was a hot and humid Summer day when climbed so the grades could be off.  This is an amazing climb and well protected.

***P1 - 5.11d - Start off with a fun, burly V4 boulder problem to get established in the right facing, overhung corner.  Continue up and right on easier climbing to a kneebar rest.  Pull a tricky sequence then get established in the open corner/chimney feature above.  This is a great standing rest.  From here, establish onto the face and follow the weakness up some moderate technical climbing to the anchor.  

-note- I place a cam in the start horizontal and high step it to slot a key #5 BD nut to protect the start crux and keep the rope out my way. Then I step down and start climbing with the nut already clipped. If you don't do this, you would just place a ~#.75 after you do the crux sequence and not even worry about the nut placement. But, a fall would not be fun without the pre-clipped nut.

This pitch, like I Yam What I Yam, has it's crux at the start.  I think the crux on this is harder than I Yam What I Yam but it is less pumpy over all. These two together would make a great combo in warmer months when chasing the shade.

****P2 - 5.11a/b - From the anchor, climb left to a thin crack with a bomber nut in a two finger slot.  The original aid line went up this crack to another good piece in a ~8" roof. The crack turns into a thin seam above this section with a flared shallow crack above it.  This could be done free on lead in the 5.11 range but the protection isn't great.  The path of least resistance, instead, steps a few feet left to a short right facing corner with good gear to a mantel.  Once you mantel, you can place a couple pieces in a horizontal and step back right and continue up to the roof past more good gear.  There is a very large detached block you move past but it looks to be OK.  You can get a good rest with plentiful gear under the roof.  From the scrunched rest, climb up and right on side pulls and jugs out the roof with fun exposure and great gear.  Above the roof you face climb up edges and side pulls staying close to the blunt arete.  There is a key #.75 placement in a horizontal about halfway up the face just on the right side of the arete. After placing this piece, you work up and left transitioning to the face on the left side of the arete and continue up easier terrain to the top.  Doubles in #.3-#1 and a set of nuts recommended for this pitch. 

Left of Mescaline Daydream and right of I Yam What I Yam

Standard rack up to #2 with doubles in #.3 - #1. I used small offsets and C3s towards the end of P1 but other similar sized gear should work.