Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Shannon Stegg, Larry Myers - 1980
Page Views: 2,236 total · 19/month
Shared By: andjoely on May 31, 2009
Admins: saxfiend

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Access Issue: Climbing Permit Needed-Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Amazing route with really thin and funky stemming. Crank a V1 start over a not so great landing to the first gear pretty high up, then climb the thin crack/corner to the P1 ledge of Primitive Paradox. Do it!

Location

15 feet left of Primitive Paradox.

Protection

The corner takes good small nuts but doesn't accept good small cams until near its end.

Photos

Stephen Felker
Boulder, CO
 
Stephen Felker   Boulder, CO
 
aka Bong Toke Express May 2, 2010
TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
 
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
 
Thought the crux was in the corner up high. It takes ballnutz really well also, before the finger sized pieces. The climb can also be TR'ed easily after climbing Primitive Paradox. Not a bad idea considering the R start. Mar 14, 2013
My first 5.11 lead 30 plus years ago now. I still remember feeling like I was bad ass after sending that rig. No ball nuts or TCUs back then, but we did have RPs and those tiny Chouninard wired stoppers, classic line. Mar 16, 2013