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A Rememberance of Jeff S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Autumn Gold T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
BT Express T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Backseat Delilah T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Diagonal, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Digital Delight T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flying Frog T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Flying Squirrel T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Highly Wired T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
I Yam What I Yam T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Into the Country (aka Out in the Country) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mescaline Daydream T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Primitive Paradox T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Punk Wave T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rapture of the Steep T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Truth or Consequences T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Wings of Wallenda T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Shannon Stegg, Larry Myers - 1980
Page Views: 2,015 total, 19/month
Shared By: andjoely on May 31, 2009
Admins: saxfiend

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Climbing Permit Needed-Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Amazing route with really thin and funky stemming. Crank a V1 start over a not so great landing to the first gear pretty high up, then climb the thin crack/corner to the P1 ledge of Primitive Paradox. Do it!

Location

15 feet left of Primitive Paradox.

Protection

The corner takes good small nuts but doesn't accept good small cams until near its end.

Photos

My first 5.11 lead 30 plus years ago now. I still remember feeling like I was bad ass after sending that rig. No ball nuts or TCUs back then, but we did have RPs and those tiny Chouninard wired stoppers, classic line. Mar 16, 2013
TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
 
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
 
Thought the crux was in the corner up high. It takes ballnutz really well also, before the finger sized pieces. The climb can also be TR'ed easily after climbing Primitive Paradox. Not a bad idea considering the R start. Mar 14, 2013
Stephen Felker
Boulder, CO
 
Stephen Felker   Boulder, CO
 
aka Bong Toke Express May 2, 2010