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Routes in Main Wall

A Rememberance of Jeff S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Autumn Gold T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
BT Express T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Backseat Delilah T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Diagonal, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Digital Delight T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flying Frog T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Flying Squirrel T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Highly Wired T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
I Yam What I Yam T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Into the Country (aka Out in the Country) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mescaline Daydream T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Primitive Paradox T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Punk Wave T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rapture of the Steep T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Truth or Consequences T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Wings of Wallenda T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Shannon Stegg and Stan Glass 1990
Page Views: 373 total, 6/month
Shared By: TomCaldwell on Feb 10, 2013
Admins: saxfiend

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Climbing Permit Needed-Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

A fine piece of face climbing that will keep you guessing. This one sports some updated hardware and great gear, so don't hesitate to get on it!

Just below a white streaked roof with a bolt above it, start on hollow but good flakes. Move up to the roof following good, but tricky gear in solid rock. Clip the first bolt and start into the ramps. Try to figure out the next section before pumping out. Continue up and right following two more bolts and sloped ramps with some intermittent gear. Get to a large sloped ledge with a short dihedral. Continue up right into a larger corner to a roof. Move right onto a big slab ramp with bolts to belay. The bolts are just below the two steep aid lines.

Location

About 30' right of flying frog and 50' right of Mescaline Daydream. When the trail to get to the Mescaline ledge reaches the wall you are below the start. Rappel with 2 60m ropes.

Protection

Many finger sized up to #3 camalot. A few small tri-cams and rack of nuts are helpful. Draws for 3 bolts and some slings for keeping it running smooth. Inspect slings on the anchor, but there is also a quick link on a bolt.

Photos

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TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
 
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
 
I figured it was you who did the updating. Those bolts were way too new to be from Stegg in the 90's. Thanks for the update there and else where in the gorge. Feb 11, 2013
Stephen Felker
Boulder, CO
Stephen Felker   Boulder, CO
LOL, you beat me to it Tom! This is a very nice mixed-pro face climb that had fallen into obscurity due to very manky fixed gear (new as of 2013). There is a second pitch that follows the right leaning dihedral to the bolted belay above Playground of Old Men. However, it is still pretty dirty (and often wet) despite a good bit of cleaning. The belay station below Tanner's Rotisserie is not really ideally placed, but it does allow you to rap off after the first pitch with one rope. Tallulah Gorge classic...! Feb 11, 2013