Type: Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: Shannon Stegg and Stan Glass 1990
Page Views: 1,458 total · 11/month
Shared By: Tom Caldwell on Feb 10, 2013 · Updates
Admins: Luke Cornejo, saxfiend

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

A fine piece of face climbing that will keep you guessing. This one sports some updated hardware and great gear, so don't hesitate to get on it!

P1 - 5.11b/c -Just below a white streaked roof with a bolt above it, start on hollow but good flakes. Move up to the roof following good, but tricky gear in solid rock. Clip the first bolt and start into the ramps. Try to figure out the next section before pumping out. Continue up and right following two more bolts and sloped ramps with some intermittent gear. Get to a large sloped ledge to the shared anchor with Astro-Geodesy. 

P2 - 5.8 -Climb up the next short pitch past a short dihedral to the next ledge system up and right to an anchor under the two angled roofs.  

P3 - 5.11f -The final pitch goes up this overhung corner to top out on the vegetated ledge above.  Either rap back down from the anchor, traverse left to ultimately get to the anchors for Flying Frog, or continue up a very dirty slab to the 'cave'.  

Location Suggest change

About 30' right of flying frog and 50' right of Mescaline Daydream. When the trail to get to the Mescaline ledge reaches the wall you are below the start. Rappel with 2 60m ropes.

Protection Suggest change

Many finger sized up to #3 camalot. A few small tri-cams and rack of nuts are helpful. Draws for 3 bolts and some slings for keeping it running smooth.

Photos

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