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Butthole Surfers
5.12- YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.8 from 4
votes
Routes in Main Wall
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A Rememberance of Jeff T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Astro-Geodesy T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Autumn Gold T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Backseat Delilah T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Backseat Nightmare T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Black Glass T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Black Sheep T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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BT Express T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Butthole Surfers T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Carry Water T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Chimichanga T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Chimney Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Chop Wood T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A2 |
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Coal Miner's Daughter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Coal Miner's Daughter Extension T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Confirmation Bias T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Copperhead Row T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Copperhead Row Direct Finish T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Creatures Void Of Form T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Diagonal, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Digital Delight T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Divine Entropy T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Escaping Time T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Flying Frog T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Flying Squirrel T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Georgia Meatshower T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Happy Enchilada T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Heaven and Hell T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Highly Wired T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Hypnotoad T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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I Yam What I Yam T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Into the Country (aka Out in the Country) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mescaline Daydream T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Primitive Paradox T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Psilocin Nightmare T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Punk Wave T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Purgatory T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Rapture of the Steep T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Splendid T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Splendor T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Thorn, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Tourist Trap T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Truth or Consequences T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Wally’s Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2- |
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Wings of Wallenda T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 653 total · 21/month |
| Shared By: | Pinche Gringo on Mar 29, 2022 |
| Admins: | Luke Cornejo, saxfiend |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Climbing Permit Needed-Seasonal Raptor Closure
Details
Typically Mid-February Tallulah Gorge will temporarily close the wall to rock climbing to protect nesting Peregrine Falcons. Climbing is expected to resume this June once the chicks fledge.
For details visit: gastateparks.org/TallulahGorge
Climbers must stop at the park's visitor center to obtain a climbing permit.
Climbing access is not allowed during whitewater releases and aesthetic water releases.
For water release schedule and further information please check the park's website, gastateparks.org/TallulahGorge.
For details visit: gastateparks.org/TallulahGorge
Climbers must stop at the park's visitor center to obtain a climbing permit.
Climbing access is not allowed during whitewater releases and aesthetic water releases.
For water release schedule and further information please check the park's website, gastateparks.org/TallulahGorge.
Description
Start up with a fun bouldery sequence to a horizontal crack with gear. Climb up the slab up and right aiming for the ledge. There is a tricky small cam (#.2 Z4/X4) placement in the vertical crack before you move up on the ledge. Once on the ledge, you move up through the fun bouldery crux sequence. The clip to protect this is high due to the ledge (a stiff draw may help if you're really short). After the crux you trend up and left on some easier terrain to get up to steep right leaning ramp features. Climb up this incredible section to gain a small ledge and anchor. Though not the crux, this last section (~5.11) offers amazing movement up a very aesthetic feature. From the anchor you can join the last two pitches of Highly Wired if you wanted to top out.
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