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Routes in Main Wall

A Rememberance of Jeff S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Autumn Gold T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
BT Express T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Backseat Delilah T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Diagonal, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Digital Delight T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flying Frog T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Flying Squirrel T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Highly Wired T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
I Yam What I Yam T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Into the Country (aka Out in the Country) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mescaline Daydream T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Primitive Paradox T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Punk Wave T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rapture of the Steep T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Truth or Consequences T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Wings of Wallenda T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Rich Gottlieb, 1977
Page Views: 973 total, 9/month
Shared By: Jeff Mekolites on Nov 9, 2008
Admins: saxfiend

You & This Route


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Climbing Permit Needed-Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Climb the far left hand crack to a stance on the right face, then "wrassle" your way up into a v notch/off-width nightmare (Yosemite style), keep squirming your way to a rest. Continue up the dihedral/flake to another rest on a big block. You are now on top of the sling nest where the two variations finish and looking up at more "wrassling" in another v notch. Okay, so now, gear, smear on crappy feet and finger lock your way to a hand jam. Gear. And continue to the fixed hex and the top. And don't forget the occasional back/butt smear.

The bolt is no more.

There are two additional starts to the right...one is 5.8, the other 5.9. These both end at slings and biners about 60 feet up.

Location

Walk around the corner from Flying Frog to a large right-angling dihedral.

Protection

Trad. Fixed hex and sling with biner at the top.

Photos

Jcastleberry
  5.10+
Jcastleberry  
  5.10+
Great climb! Very clean & has a new two bolt anchor at ~95’. Nov 27, 2017
Will Carney
Tallulah Falls, GA
  5.10c/d
Will Carney   Tallulah Falls, GA
  5.10c/d
This is a great climb that doesn't see a lot of action. Has three starts(lines) ranging from 5.7-5.10. I suppose each could be their own climb, but they're all on top of each other and end at the same anchor. Also offers shade when the face is on fire. Great climb for practicing crack/smear. Aug 10, 2015
try this. take whichever start you want and climb until the crack necks down and belay. it's about 100 feet. look left. there is a flake with thin tips leading to a corner. climb that. go up the corner, out the blocky roof and exit onto the face. short, but exposed and excellent. Aug 10, 2010
Will S
Joshua Tree
  5.10b
Will S   Joshua Tree
  5.10b
This is a good pitch, not quite on par with the classics, but well worth doing. I did the normal start and thought it was way light for 10d, 10b is more like it. Protects well, so jump on it. Nov 20, 2008