Type: Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches
FA: Rich Gottlieb 1977. Diagonal Direct (P2): Rich Gottlieb 1979 FFA Shannon Stegg 1988
Page Views: 2,328 total · 12/month
Shared By: Jeff Mekolites on Nov 9, 2008 · Updates
Admins: Luke Cornejo, saxfiend

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

P1 - 5.10 c/d - Start up one of three different variations to get up to a ledge below the obvious chimney feature.  Reach high and place some gear to protect the crux sequence to keep you off the ledge.  Once you get established above the crux, you get some more gear and the difficulty eases, though it is still strenuous climbing to the anchor.  This pitch is amazing if you enjoy the style!

P2 - 5.11 a/b - From the anchor continue up a tricky mini chimney which turns into a short crack.  Once you get to where the orange face joins the overhung face, you'll traverse across a hand ledge system with poor feet.  Once established on an exposed ledge system out left, you figure out the small gear before committing to the exposed exit.  Once you top out the pitch, there is an anchor station just around the corner on a ledge.  

 -If you have a single rope, you can't make it to the ground from this anchor.  Walk across the ledge roughly 50 feet to an anchor station at the top of Autumn Gold.  It is directly above a small pine.  Toss your rope on skier's right of the pine and rap down a short rap to the ledge below.  From here you can rap from the anchors at the top of Avante-Garde. 


Location Suggest change

Walk around the corner from Flying Frog to a large right-angling dihedral.

Protection Suggest change

Standard rack for P1.  You'll want a #4 C4 for the section before the traverse on P2.  Small cams (#1 C3 or equivalent) and micro-nuts protect the last section after the traverse.